Sweet Karoline

We've moved!

2010-11-25T12:55:00.000-08:00

Check out our newly updated site at www.karolineskitchen.com !!!

Under Construction

2010-10-24T21:54:00.001-07:00

Hey everybody! Sorry to have been away for a while, but my new site is under construction. It will have bigger, better photos and lots more information. Can't wait for you to check it out. I'll let you know when it's ready!

Put yer Hoes Down!

2010-10-09T10:44:00.000-07:00

Last weekend, I had the absolute pleasure of attending the 23rd annual Hoes Down Harvest Festival at Full Belly Farm in Yolo County, CA. There are so many amazing things to point out about this particular event. Established in 1985, Full Belly farm was one of the first (if not, THE first) organic farms in California. Today, they have 400 acres of mind blowing biodiversity. In addition to crops ranging from tomatoes and peaches to walnuts and wild flowers, the farm boasts an extensive livestock collection including pigs, chickens, bees, lamb, sheep, llamas, and goats!

Two of the four owners/ farmers of Full Belly were featured in book called Farmer Jane. It's definitely on my must read list, and I think it should be on yours, too!

Now on to the party...Every year, the farm hosts the now famous Hoes Down festival. Attended by thousands of yuppies and hippies alike, the primary goal of the celebration is to educate people about agricultural arts and sustainable rural living. There is an abundance of good food, music, dancing, arts, crafts, sustainable farming talks and demonstrations. There are also countless activities for the kiddies...petting zoo, bobbing for apples, pumpkin carving contests, making wildflower crowns, weaving wool, etc etc etc. With so much going on, it is no wonder that many families make the choice to camp out in the orchard over night.

In addition to promoting agricultural education, the fest is a fundraiser benefiting many community organizations like EcoFarm, Future Farmers of America, Yolo Land Trust, and their local 4H chapter.

So, whether you want to make pine nut bracelets, shop for handmade candles, gaze at the blacksmiths in wonder, play in the creek, or enjoy a hayride through the farm, there is a little bit of something for everybody.

Grilled Pizza

2010-10-09T10:38:00.000-07:00

Just a photo that I wanted to share with you from our trip home to St. Louis back in August. Grilled pizzas are becoming quite popular. The bonus is that they are super easy to make. Just keep the dough thin and the heat high!

Lamb & Figs

2010-10-06T09:03:00.000-07:00

Roast lamb with figs, and then roll out the flatbread
By Karoline Boehm Goodnick, Globe Correspondent | October 6, 2010

Once a common roast for midday Sunday dinner, leg of lamb has lost its place of prominence. One reason is that the joint is known to be hard to carve. But now legs come boned and rolled and take about an hour to roast. With shared Mediterranean origins, lamb and figs are a natural match. Add couscous, a North African staple, and you have an appealing plate. Rub the meat with a smoky, sweet combination of paprika and rosemary. Halfway through roasting, surround the lamb with chopped fresh mission figs so their juices meld with the drippings. While the meat rests after roasting, make a quick pan sauce that will serve you again on flatbreads.

Whether you call it pizza or flatbread, this stylish pie has been embraced by chefs everywhere, and is a terrific way of repurposing leftovers. Buy pizza dough, divide it into pieces, then flatten them (don’t worry if you’re not good at this; misshapen rounds add rustic elegance). Top each with fig sauce, arugula leaves, lamb, and goat cheese. Bake them near the bottom of the oven until they’re firm and golden, then sprinkle with balsamic vinegar and olive oil. New England practicality meets modern flare.

Roast leg of lamb with figs

Serves 4, with leftovers

1 boned rolled leg of lamb (3 1/2 pounds)
3 cloves garlic, halved
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon paprika
2 tablespoons olive oil
18 fresh black mission figs, stemmed and chopped
1 cup red wine
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons honey

1. Set the oven at 450 degrees. With a small knife, cut 6 small slits in the lamb, and place 1/2 clove garlic in each slit. Sprinkle lamb with salt and pepper.

2. In a small bowl, mix together rosemary, paprika, and olive oil. Rub lamb with the rosemary mixture. Set it in a large cast iron skillet or heavy roasting pan (not ceramic).

3. Roast the lamb for 20 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 325 degrees. Continue roasting for 15 minutes. Remove the pan from oven and set the figs around the edges of the pan. Roast for 20 minutes or until a meat thermometer inserted in the center of the meat registers 125 to 130 degrees for rare lamb. (Total roasting time is 55 minutes.) For medium to well-done meat, continue roasting for 5 to 10 minutes or until the temperature reaches 145 to 160 degrees.

4. Transfer the roast to a metal rack set over a plate. Let it rest for 5 minutes (the temperature will continue to rise a few degrees).

5. Pour off the fat from the pan, keeping the juices. Place the pan on a burner over high heat. Add the wine and vinegar. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, and let it bubble for 5 minutes. Add honey, salt, and pepper. Set aside 1 1/2 cups sauce with some figs in it for the flatbreads.

6. Discard twine from lamb. Carve the lamb on a slight angle into thick pieces. Set aside 1/4 of the lamb for the flatbreads.

7. Divide the remaining lamb and couscous among 4 plates. Ladle fig sauce over the lamb.

Fig and lamb flatbreads

Serves 4

Olive oil (for sprinkling)
2 pounds commercial pizza dough
Flour (for sprinkling)
1 1/2 cups fig sauce from lamb
2 cups fresh arugula, stemmed
2 cups chopped roast lamb
8 ounces fresh goat cheese
Salt and pepper, to taste
Balsamic vinegar (for sprinkling)

1. Set the oven at 500 degrees. Position a rack at the lowest part of the oven. Lightly oil 2 large rimmed baking sheets.

2. Punch down the dough. Divide it into 8 equal pieces. Dust each lightly with flour, and cover 7 of them with a clean towel. Using a rolling pin, roll 1 ball firmly and evenly, flattening it into a 6-inch disk, dusting with flour when the dough becomes sticky. Slip it under the towel and shape the remaining rounds in the same way. Divide the rounds between the baking sheets.

3. With the back of a spoon, spread about 3 tablespoons of fig sauce on each round, then add 1/4 cup arugula, 1/4 cup chopped lamb, 2 tablespoons goat cheese, salt, and pepper.

4. Bake the pizzas for 5 minutes or until the crust is firm and golden. With a wide metal spatula, transfer the pizzas to a large platter. Sprinkle with balsamic vinegar and pepper. Brush crust with olive oil.

Happy Birthday!

2010-10-06T08:41:00.000-07:00

B's birthday is my favorite day of the year...because it means he is, once again, as old as I am! Can't wait to celebrate!

Fortune Cookie Factory

2010-10-02T08:29:00.000-07:00

If you google "free things to do in the Bay Area," chances are that a tour of a fortune cookie factory will pop up at the top of the list. Always game for free AND food-related activities, I hopped on the chance to find out just how they got those hidden messages tucked safely inside the folds of the wafer.

Paranoid as I am about arriving at a place after hours or on an off day, I called ahead to inquire about the day's schedule. The man on the phone was clearly not a native English speaker; he merely kept repeating, "We open till 7 pm. You come any time." "Ok," I thought to myself, "This is kind of bizarre, but what do I have to lose?"

Several BART stops later, I found myself wandering through the brightly colored, lanterned maze that is Chinatown in San Francisco. 9-5ers raced through the streets around me as I desperately tried to keep stride with the New Yorker that accompanied me on this adventure. Guided by her I-phone (god knows I don't have one), we turned down an alley that looked more like a zone for illegal abortions than fresh baked delights.

And then we saw it. On the right hand sign was a miniature sign indicating that we had indeed arrived at the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory. In an airy, open storefront the size of a postage stamp, we were immediately greeted by the three employees and entire operation!

The same man who answered the phone stood by the doorway offering the rejected cookies as a sample of their wares and ensuring that anyone with a camera paid the requisite 50 cents for a photo of his ladies. This included the Floridian man, armed with a video camera, who kept referring to the edibles as "egg rolls" while filming!

Behind him, two women worked the assembly lines, making sure the batter was loaded into the dispenser, discarding cookies that didn't meet their exacting standards (boy, there seemed to be a lot of them), and carefully plucking off the prime tuiles from the hot iron press, filling them with a message, and folding them to fully envelope the surprise. Together, these two women made thousands of fortune cookies everyday, and I am pretty sure that they were all the nuts and bolts of the operation.

Satisfied with our discovery, we paid for a bag of adult fortune cookies and went on our way. A word of advice: don't spring the extra 50 cents (or whatever it was) for the naughty notes - out of about 10 that I ate, 9 were the same nonsensical and non-naughty message!

Confessions

2010-09-29T13:17:00.000-07:00

No, this isn’t some kind of plug for an old Usher album. Nor does it have anything to do with time spent in a wooden box with a man wearing a robe. Instead, I fear that I must confess that my year of “unprocessed” eating has gone slightly askew. In all honesty, I would say that we made it until about June…and, then, I fell off the wagon – big time. A series of weddings, vacations, and out of town guests really threw my willpower for a loop. And, let’s face it folks, I’ve never been too strong in the willpower department.

To clarify, however, things aren’t all bad. We still aren’t drinking soda, eating chips (except for the rare drunken wedding night – yes, I did indeed raid the mini bar after Leslie and Reed’s wedding), digging into paper wrapped fast “food”, or binging on candy. The basic ideas are still in tact, but there are a few things to be learned here. I have three jobs. Ben has one that adds up to the time commitment of four. The reality of the situation is that if we want to eat, sometimes, we have to make exceptions. The efforts made gave me an even better understanding of just why busy Americans might turn to convenience foods even when they truly don’t want to. Something else that occurred to me ‘round about July was that healthy as my eating may have been, I was not getting enough of certain nutrients or food groups. Most of you know that I don’t eat a lot of meat – it totally sketches me out on a lot of levels. Yet, a girl needs protein. Trying to stick to our rules meant a lot of dinners of fruit and veggies – read: unprocessed and easily prepared. If I allow for healthy processed foods like fat free yogurt (God, I love Fage) and hummus (protein, fiber, AND heart healthy fats), my diet stays more balanced.

My hope, moving forward, is to really return to home cooking. Our trips for the year are mostly done, and we are only expecting a couple more visitors. Not only will we get our eating back on track but our financial situation as well! We have loosened some rules, but remain steadfast in others. I intend for this blog post to be a re-assertion of our unprocessed goals and a return to a better diet.

There’s one more reason that all of this is particularly important. At the onset of this project, I told you all that I have PCOS – a nasty condition that causes hair loss, abdominal fat, acne, insulin resistance, and totally out of whack hormones. Perhaps the most devastating symptom is that women who have PCOS don’t ovulate regularly. I recently read that a 30 year old woman with PCOS has a 60-70% chance of conception IF she maintains a healthy weight, eats well, and exercises daily. Odds go down drastically with age. So, here I am, 30 years old, practicing yoga 4 times a week, and trying every day to reign in my overwhelming desire to eat junkfood. I’ve even given up drinking alcohol. I can’t wait any longer as I know it’s going to be a long journey. I invite you to come along for the ride -- not literally – Ben and I will keep that part to ourselves! ;) ewww… – as this woman journals the trials and tribulations of eating well to achieve and maintain a healthy pregnancy. In less than two weeks, the goalie will be out of the game.

Whole Wheat Pancakes with Apple Compote

2010-09-29T12:43:00.000-07:00

Whole-wheat pancakes with apple compote
September 29, 2010
Boston Globe

Serves 4

Whole-wheat pancakes, made with beaten egg whites, are hearty and nutty, a good match for an apple compote with walnuts, raisins, maple syrup, and warm spices. Double the compote recipe to keep on hand for other breakfasts or to set beside pork chops at supper.

COMPOTE

4 baking apples (see Page 19), peeled, seeded, and chopped
1/4 cup chopped walnuts
1/4 cup golden raisins
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup water
Juice of 1 lemon
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground nutmeg
Pinch of salt

1. In a heavy saucepan over high heat, combine apples, walnuts, raisins, butter, maple syrup, water, lemon, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt.

2. Bring liquid to a boil, lower the heat, and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until apples soften.

PANCAKES

4 eggs, separated
1 1/2 cups milk
1/4 cup sour cream
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 cups whole-wheat flour
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
Canola oil (for the pan)
1/2 cup heavy cream, softly whipped (optional)

1. In a bowl, whisk the egg whites until they hold stiff peaks; set aside.

2. In another large bowl, stir together yolks, milk, sour cream, sugar, canola oil, and salt. With a rubber spatula, fold in the baking powder, baking soda, and whole-wheat and all-purpose flours. Fold in the whites.

3. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add a few drops of canola oil and swirl it around in the pan.

4. Ladle the batter by the 1/4 cupfuls, adding about 4 to the pan. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until bubbles form on the tops of the pancakes. Turn and cook 2 to 3 minutes more or until golden on the undersides. Wipe pan with oil between batches.

5. Serve pancakes with apple compote and whipped cream, if you like.

Apple Clafoutis

2010-09-29T12:38:00.000-07:00

Apple clafoutis
September 29, 2010
Boston Globe

Serves 6

Traditionally made in the Limousin region of France with sour cherries, this rustic dessert offers a platform to showcase seasonal fruit. The mixture is similar to a crepe or pancake batter. Let it rest and it will develop flavor. Saute apples in butter and sugar, then combine the fruit and batter in a baking dish. As it cooks, it turns into a souffle with a golden crust, which falls as it cools (it’s supposed to) and tastes almost creamy.

BATTER

2 eggs plus 2 extra yolks
1/2 cup sugar
Pinch of salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/2 cup flour
3/4 cup milk
1/2 cup heavy cream

1. In a blender, work the eggs, extra yolks, sugar, salt, and vanilla for 30 seconds. Add the flour and blend until smooth.

2. With the machine running, pour in milk and cream. When the mixture is smooth, set aside for 30 minutes.

APPLES

2 tablespoons butter
4 baking apples, peeled, seeded, and chopped
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
Salt, to taste
2 tablespoons brandy
Butter (for the dish)
1 teaspoon granulated sugar mixed with 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Confectioners’ sugar (for sprinkling)

1. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the butter. Add the apples, 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, and salt. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes, or until apples are tender. Remove pan from heat, and add brandy. Return pan to heat, and cook for 2 minutes.

2. Transfer the apples to a plate; leave to cool.

3. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Butter a deep 9-inch baking dish.

4. Lay the apples in the dish. Cover with batter. Sprinkle with the cinnamon-sugar mixture.

5. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the mixture is puffed and golden, and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.

6. Cool on a wire rack. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar.

Honey Caramel Apple Dip

2010-09-29T12:33:00.000-07:00

Honey-caramel apple dip
Boston Globe
September 29, 2010

Serves 6

You may have noticed individual packs of caramel sauce lining produce shelves for dipping apples. It’s easy enough to make your own. You need a candy thermometer and a large saucepan (the steps are simple, but working with sugar is precise). Use caution with children around as caramel reaches extremely hot temperatures and crawls high up the sides of the pot. For added fun, set up a dipping bar with chocolate chips, chopped nuts, and red hot cinnamon candies. Skip the stick.

1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup honey
6 apples, cored and cut into wedges

1. In a large, heavy bottom saucepan, heat 1 1/2 cups of the cream and salt over high heat just until small bubbles begin to form on the surface (just before a simmer).

2. Stir in the honey and bring to a boil. Let the mixture bubble steadily, stirring often with a wooden spoon, for 10 minutes or until a candy thermometer registers 240 degrees. Carefully remove saucepan from the heat.

3. In a small saucepan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons cream. Stir warm cream into hot caramel.

4. Transfer caramel to a heatproof bowl. Set aside to cool completely. Serve at room temperature with apple wedges.

Modern 3 Bean Salad

2010-09-17T11:51:00.000-07:00

Modern three-bean salad
From The Boston Globe
September 15, 2010

Serves 4

Once the result of several cans of beans tossed with sugar and vinegar, three-bean salad has been updated. For ease, keep at least one can in the mix (kidney beans) and toss in your favorite variety of frozen beans (such as limas). Blanched green beans add freshness, limas and kidneys protein, bell pepper and red onion some crunch. Instead of cilantro, substitute dill or parsley, if you like. Add chopped smoked salmon for a more substantial dish, and move the salad from the side table to the main course.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 can (15 ounces) red kidney beans, drained and rinsed
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 package (10 ounces) frozen lima beans, rinsed with cold water
1 green bell pepper, cored and chopped
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 pound green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. In a skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the ground cumin and red kidney beans. Stir well for 1 minute. When they are hot, stir in vinegar.

2. Stir in limas beans. Cook for 1 minute more.

3. In a large bowl, combine bell pepper, onion, garlic, salt, and pepper. Add kidney bean mixture. Toss gently and set aside for 30 minutes or until cool.

4. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add green beans and cook for 3 minutes, or until tender but still have some bite. Drain and rinse with cold water until the beans are no longer hot. Pat them dry with paper towels.

5. Add the green beans and cilantro to the kidney bean mixture. Toss well. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

Karoline Boehm Goodnick

Foodista - Best of the Food Blogs

2010-09-03T08:41:00.000-07:00

Woohoo! My recipe for farro with asparagus and mushrooms was selected to be an entry in the Foodista Best of the Food Blogs Cookbook! Thanks to all of you who voted. I can't wait to see the book; you can pre-order a copy at Amazon.com. Happy reading!

Hog Island - Tomales Bay

2010-09-03T08:21:00.001-07:00

We've loved Hog Island oysters and their seafood bar at the Ferry Building for a long time now, but when you want to avoid the crowds and enjoy a serene picnic on the water, Tomales Bay is where its at!

Not only can you enjoy a perfectly packed picnic, but you can check out the farm as well -- watching the sorter spin round and round as hundreds of tiny bivalves fall to one side or the other.

Whole wheat pasta salad with grilled sardines

Serves 4-6

½ pound whole wheat pasta
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 large tomato, chopped
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
1 tablespoon capers
½ cup chopped olives
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons African basil flowers (or chopped basil)
Salt and pepper, to taste
8 whole sardines, fileted
Olive oil, for rubbing

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, and cook for 7 minutes, or until al dente.
2. Drain pasta water, and set noodles aside.
3. In a large bowl, combine all other ingredients. Add warm pasta, and toss.
4. Let stand for 1 hour at room temperature. Set the oven to broil, or heat a grill to high heat.
5. De-bone sardines and portion into filets (you can also ask your fishmonger to do this for you). Season each side with salt and pepper. Rub each filet with olive oil.
6. Place the sardines on a metal baking sheet or sizzle plate. Broil or grill for 2-3 minutes, skin side down, or until cooked through.
7. Remove sardines from pan, and serve atop pasta salad.

A special thanks to Diana, the photographer for the day, since I forgot my memory card. And, thanks to Nick, whose name-dropping even saved us a few pennies!

Mexican Corn on the Cob

2010-09-03T08:12:00.001-07:00

Mexican corn on the cob
By Karoline Boehm Goodnick, Globe Correspondent | August 18, 2010

Serves 6

Also known as elote, Mexican-style corn on the cob can be boiled first or grilled over hot coals until the kernels are charred and toasty. It’s a dish that began as street food and is now served in good restaurants. The white cheese cotija is at many specialty markets, but you can substitute a dry, crumbly cheese such as feta. Sprinkle with cayenne pepper for a kick of spice, guajillo for smoky notes, or paprika for sweet earthiness. Finish with a spritz of lime to make it pop.

Salt, to taste
6 ears of corn, shucked
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 cup crumbled cotija cheese
2 teaspoons cayenne pepper, guajillo, or paprika
2 limes, quartered
1. In a large shallow pot, bring several inches of salted water to a boil. Add the corn, cover, and cook for 3 minutes, turning once.

2. Remove the corn from the water, and pat dry with paper towels.

3. Spread 1/2 tablespoon mayonnaise on each ear. Sprinkle corn with crumbled cheese, pressing lightly so it sticks. Sprinkle with salt and cayenne pepper, guajillo, or paprika. Serve with lime.

Barbeclette

2010-09-03T08:02:00.000-07:00

Have a meltdown
By Karoline Boehm Goodnick, Globe Correspondent | September 1, 2010

Raclette is both a European cow’s milk cheese and a popular Swiss dish which typically consists of melted cheese scraped onto a heaping pile of boiled potatoes, pickled onions, and gherkins. Today, there are a variety of instruments used to re-create this fondue-like appetizer at home, none simpler than the Barbeclette ($12.39). Made by Boska Holland, in the Netherlands, the nonstick tray has a heatproof handle for use on outdoor grills. A campfire setting was once an essential component for raclette, dinner for Alpine cattle herders. But the tool has other uses. Melt mozzarella as a topping for vegetable skewers; combine provolone, tomatoes, and oregano in the pan for a variation of provoleta; stick by the traditional Swiss or appenzeller, melted and poured over cured meats and grilled potatoes; or top your favorite burger. Whatever way you slice it, there are few things greater than gooey, melted cheese. Available at Boston Cheese Cellar, 18 Birch St., Roslindale, 617-325-2500; Idylwilde Farms, 366 Central St., Acton, 978-263-5943.

An Austrian Celebration

2010-08-16T19:18:00.000-07:00

This year, my father celebrated his 60th birthday. Since he is the definitive "man who has everything," we decided to make him an old school dinner as a tribute to his Austrian heritage. (My great-grandmother, Karoline, was born in Vienna; as a young teen, she migrated to the U.S. where she worked as a professional cook!) Of course, when I think of Viennese cooking, I think of breakfast pastries (they invented the croissant), intricate tortes, and schnitzel. So, the choice of Sacher Torte for dessert was a given. But how exactly does one incorporate the fresh gulf catch of the day into a menu based on the cuisine of a small, landlocked European nation? Turns out that lightly poached fish topped with a cucumber sour cream sauce was the perfect choice! Check out the rest below...

Pretzel rolls from 1994 issue of Bon Appetit...so chewy and salty.

Ben's luxurious snapper bisque -- a high note of the meal, made even more surreal by the soothing sounds of Vienna's finest composers.

An old-school throwback of German-style potato salad.

Spinach souffle seemed a logical choice given the German name - Spinatauflauf Karoline! The recipe came from Gourmet magazine's hardback publication of "Old Vienna Cookbook" -- another vintage keeper!

The main course of poached snapper.

The famous Sacher Torte - named after a hotel in Vienna, it is a light chocolate cake, filled with apricot jam, and glazed with ganache. It's sinful when topped with whipped cream.

The final touch of the evening was the genuine silver coffee service. An extremely tarnished coffee urn was polished to reveal the United Airlines logo! It appears to be a retro pot from the 1970s, used for service in the first class cabin. The rest of the set came from a 25th anniversary gift to Ben's parents. Note the whipped cream (or "schlag") -- a worthwhile indulgence that takes coffee to another level! Happy Birthday, Dad! Hope you enjoyed the gastronomic virtual trip to the mother land!

(Mom - thanks for taking the photos while we cooked!)

More From Top Chef

2010-08-15T09:47:00.001-07:00

Other recipes we've been working on at Top Chef are panzanella (Italian bread salad) and hummus! This salad recipe is a great way to get kids to eat their veggies; everybody wants to dive right into the salad that they made with their own two hands!

Hummus becomes extra magical when Auritte explains the ritual consumption in her homeland of Israel. Wipe it up with pita or spread it on a whole wheat dinner roll.

We make hummus at home from dried garbanzo beans, but canned is easier for the kids, and you might find out the same. This simple recipe has great results.

Hummus is a middle-eastern dip made with chickpeas (also known as garbanzo beans), seasonings, and tahini (sesame seed butter). The dip is often served with raw vegetables, spread on pita bread, or schmeared on a sandwich.

Drizzling in the olive oil helps us to understand the process of emulsification. Think about what happens when you try to mix oil and water. The oil will float to the top and will not mix in with the water. Emulsification is the process of blending the fat and liquid together. By drizzling the oil into the machine while it is running, we can emulsify the oil and create a smooth, homogenous dip.

Serves 6 people as a dip

1 can (15 ounces) chickpeas, drained
2 cloves garlic, smashed
Juice of 1 lemon
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons tahini
2 tablespoons olive oil
Olive oil for drizzling
Paprika for sprinkling

1. Put chickpeas, garlic, lemon juice, salt, and tahini in a food processor. Process until slightly smooth.
2. With the machine running, slowly stream in the olive oil.
3. Continue processing until hummus is smooth.
4. Taste for seasoning. Add more salt or lemon juice if necessary. Garnish with olive oil and paprika.

Whole wheat dinner rolls
Makes 12

1 1/4 cups whole wheat flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 (1/4-ounce) package active dry yeast
1 cup warm (105 to 115°F) milk
3 tablespoons butter, melted
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 cup all-purpose flour

1. In a large bowl, stir together whole wheat flour, sugar, salt and yeast. Stir in milk, butter, and egg. Beat until the mixture is smooth.
2. Add all-purpose flour and mix again until the batter is smooth.
3. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let rise in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours, or until it has doubled in size.
4. Stir the batter to deflate it slightly. Grease the muffin pans with pan spray. Scoop even amounts of batter into each muffin cup.
5. Cover with plastic and set aside. Proof for about 1 hour, or until rolls have grown up over the top of the muffin pans. Set the oven at 400 degrees.
6. Bake rolls for 15- 20 minutes or until golden brown. Serve warm with homemade butter.

Top Chef Class

2010-08-15T09:17:00.000-07:00

As many of you already know, I am teaching a few classes at Celsius & Beyond. This summer camp is more specifically called Top Chef. The kids range in age from 6 - 12. My lessons focus on fermentation and a few other processes of country cooking such as emulsification. In previous posts, I have laid out some of the recipes we have been working on: gazpacho, soft pretzels, & homemade butter.

Of course, the kids' choice favorite is always the cinnamon rolls. How can you resist that smell? With only a minimum amount of guidance, they cranked out some really gorgeous buns!

Feel free to try this at home - if the little guys can do it, so can you!

Cinnamon Rolls
Yield 12

6 ½ tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
5 ½ tablespoons butter
1 egg, beaten
Zest of 1 lemon
3 ½ cups flour (you may need to add extra flour if the dough seems very wet)
2 teaspoons instant yeast
1 ¼ cups buttermilk
1 cup water
6 ½ tablespoons sugar
1 ½ tablespoons ground cinnamon
4 cups powdered sugar
6 tablespoons water

1. Cream together sugar, salt, and butter in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle (on medium-high speed).
2. Scrape down sides of bowl. Mix in egg and lemon zest. Scrape down again.
3. Add flour, yeast, buttermilk, and water. Mix on low speed until dough begins to form a ball. Switch to dough hook. Mix on medium speed for 10 minutes.
4. Place the dough in an oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap. Rest for 2 hours or until dough is doubled in size.
5. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured counter. Roll the dough into a rectangle that is 12 inches by 14 inches.
6. In a small bowl, mix together cinnamon and sugar. Sprinkle the cinnamon sugar onto the dough. Roll the dough into a cigar-shaped log.
7. Using a serrated knife, cut the log into 12 pieces.
8. Transfer the pieces to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
9. Proof at room temperature for 60 minutes, or until doubled in size. Set the oven at 350 degrees.
10. Bake the cinnamon rolls for 20-30 minutes, or until golden. Cool for 5 minutes.
11. In a small bowl, whisk powdered sugar with water to make a glaze. Brush each roll with glaze. Serve warm.

Sand Torte

2010-08-12T16:16:00.000-07:00

This elegant recipe makes the perfect dessert when you are in the mood to indulge but know that you have to squeeze into a bathing suit the next day. Light as a feather, the recipe was originally published in the July 1977 issue of Gourmet magazine. The ground almonds give the cake a somewhat grainy texture - hence the name "Sand Torte". It is a classic in our family as was the tradition of reading Gourmet. Even though the magazine is no longer in publication, we will continue to cook from its many phenomenal recipes. (Thanks to my broski for sharing these photos with us!)

3/4 cup flour
1/2 cup blanched almonds
4 eggs
2 yolks
1/2 cup sugar
6 tablespoons clarified butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
Powdered sugar, for sprinkling

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. In a skillet over medium heat, lightly toast almonds. Transfer to a food processor and pulse until finely ground.
2. Sift flour and blanched almonds together and set aside.
3. In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine eggs, yolks, and sugar. Set the bowl over a saucepan containing 2 inches of hot but not boiling water. Stir occasionally until it is lukewarm.
4. Transfer the bowl to the machine, and whip on medium high speed for 10 minutes, or until it is light and tripled in volume.
5. Sift in the flour mixture, about 1/4 cup at a time, folding gently.
6. Gently fold in clarified butter, vanilla, and lemon zest one tablespoon at a time.
7. Pour batter into a buttered and floured 1 1/2 quart kugelhupf pan (or a bundt pan).
8. Bake 35-40 minutes, or until a toothpick is inserted into the center and comes out clean.
9. Cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Invert onto a plate. Sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Sausage & Peppers To Dirty Rice

2010-08-11T06:51:00.000-07:00

Italian sausages and peppers
August 4, 2010

Italian sausage and bell peppers make a hearty pair, no matter how you do them — grilled and lightly charred, braised in beer, slow cooked, served on a bun, or tossed with pasta.

Another great way to present the satisfying duo is to cook them in a skillet and spoon them over soft polenta. Brown the sausages and remove them from the pan, then cook the onions and peppers in the meaty bits. Simmer them together in beer. Stir a potful of golden polenta while they cook. Slowly stream polenta flour into boiling water and keep stirring until it thickens. Season with butter and cheese.

The following day, leftover sausages, peppers, and onions become dirty rice, a Cajun specialty in which ground meat muddies (in a good way) white grains. The mixture is cooked pilaf style, typically with chicken livers. Cooking the livers separately guarantees a crispy exterior and pleasant flavor. Chop them finely and stir them into the cooked rice with a classic New Orleans garnish of scallions and parsley. Serve with a splash of Louisiana hot sauce. Beads optional.

Serves 4, with leftovers

SAUSAGES

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
10 Italian sausage links (mixture of hot and sweet), pricked well all over
5 bell peppers (red, yellow, green), cored, seeded, and thinly sliced
2 large red onions, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
1 sprig fresh oregano
12 ounces lager beer
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a large flameproof casserole with a tight fitting lid, heat the oil over high heat. Add sausages and cook, turning several times, for 5 to 7 minutes or until nicely browned. Transfer to a plate.

2. Add peppers and onions. Cook, stirring often, for 8 to 10 minutes or until tender. Return sausages to pan. Add bay leaf, oregano, beer, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove lid, and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes more.

3. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt and pepper, if you like. (Reserve 4 sausages and 1 1/2 cups peppers and onions for dirty rice.)

POLENTA

3 1/3 cups water
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 cup coarse polenta flour
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 cup freshly grated asiago or Parmesan cheese

1. In a large saucepan, bring the water and a large pinch of salt to a boil. Stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, add the polenta in a slow, steady stream. Reduce the heat to medium low. Simmer, stirring often, for 20 minutes or until the polenta is thick and smooth.

2. Stir in butter, cheese, and pepper. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

Dirty rice

Serves 4

Cajun seasoning is a ready-made mixture of ground peppers, usually including garlic powder. You can make your own combination of ground chili powder, cayenne pepper, and black pepper.

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 stalks celery, thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, chopped
4 cooked Italian sausages, crumbled
1 1/2 cups cooked peppers and onions
2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning (available at specialty markets)
1 1/2 cups basmati or other long-grain white rice, rinsed
2 1/4 cups chicken stock
Salt, to taste
3 tablespoons flour
1/2 pound chicken livers (optional)
2 tablespoons butter
3 scallions, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
Hot sauce (for serving)

1. In a large flameproof casserole over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil. Cook the celery and garlic, stirring often, for 3 minutes.

2. Add the sausage and pepper mixture, and 1 tablespoon of Cajun seasoning. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

3. Stir in the rice, chicken stock, and salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, cover the pan, and simmer for 15 minutes.

4. In a shallow bowl, combine the remaining 1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning, flour, and salt.

5. Pat the chicken livers dry with paper towels. Toss chicken livers in flour mixture to coat them.

6. In a skillet over medium high heat, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. When it is hot, add the butter. Cook the chicken livers 3 to 5 minutes on a side until they are firm and golden. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. When livers are cool enough to handle, chop roughly.

7. Stir livers into the rice mixture. Add scallions and parsley. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt, if you like. Serve with hot sauce.

Spicy Melon Salad

2010-08-11T06:39:00.000-07:00

Spicy melon salad
From the Boston Globe on August 4, 2010

Serves 6

Popularized by street carts in Mexico and Latin neighborhoods throughout the United States, this versatile dish can be served any time of day. Vendors sell zip-top bags filled with diced fruit. They add salt, lime juice, and dried chili powder to order. Bring these fresh flavors to your table, replacing chili powder with sliced jalapeno and chopped mint. Mix it up with pineapple, papaya, jicama, or mango. Season with salt just before serving, as it quickly leeches juices from the fruits.

2 cantaloupe, honeydew, or other ripe melons (about 6 pounds total), halved, seeded, peeled, and chopped
Grated rind of 1 lime
Juice of 2 limes
1/2 jalapeno, seeded and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
1/2 teaspoon salt

1. In a large bowl, combine melon, lime rind and juice, jalapeno, and mint.

2. Stir well, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour. Sprinkle with salt and stir gently.

Karoline Boehm Goodnick

Tomato Pie

2010-08-11T06:32:00.000-07:00

Tomato Pie from the Boston Globe 8.11.10
Serves 6

There are many variations of tomato pie, using an old-fashioned lard crust, as North Carolina resident Mindy Fitzpatrick does, or adding different cheeses, spices, vegetables, even meat. This version uses onion, cheddar, mozzarella, mayonnaise, fresh basil, and crushed Ritz crackers. Use your favorite pastry recipe or a ready-made frozen crust. You can also use 10 plum tomatoes for this pie.

4 large ripe tomatoes, cored and sliced medium-thick
Salt and pepper, to taste
6 tablespoons butter
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
Deep 9-inch pie pan lined with pastry
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 cup shredded cheddar
1 cup shredded mozzarella
1 cup mayonnaise
Handful of fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
1 cup crushed Ritz crackers

1. In a colander, layer the tomatoes with salt; set aside for 10 minutes to drain. Press the tomatoes with your hand to release excess liquid.

2. Set the oven to 375 degrees.

3. In a skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the onion, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes.

4. Prick the pastry well all over. Dust the pastry with half the nutmeg. Press a piece of foil into the pastry. Fill it with rice or beans and bake the dough for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and rice or beans. Continue baking for 5 minutes or until the edges begin to brown. Remove from oven.

5. Turn the oven temperature down to 350 degrees.

6. Layer half the tomatoes in the pastry. Add a layer of onions and sprinkle with pepper.

7. In a bowl, mix the cheddar and mozzarella. Set aside 1 cup of the cheese.

8. In another bowl, mix together the 1 cup of cheese, mayonnaise, and remaining nutmeg. Spread the mixture over the tomatoes.

9. Add another layer of tomatoes, pepper, and onions.

10. Sprinkle with basil and the remaining cheese.

11. Bake the pie for 50 minutes until the cheese forms a golden crust.

12. Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter. In a bowl, toss the crackers and butter. Sprinkle the mixture on the pie and continue baking for 10 minutes more. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Adapted from the Friendly Market

Fishing For A Feast

2010-08-10T18:06:00.000-07:00

I'm not much of a fisherwoman, although I do enjoy the idea of catch-your-own. Destin's charter boats make it easy for you. Despite the ginormous BP disaster, the waters here are cleared for swimming and fishing. After a whole day on the water, we went away with a collection of almost 40 snappers and trigger fish. Back at the condo and safe on land, we have carefully prepped and frozen everything that we won't eat this week. My parents will be taking it home for future good times. Until then, we plan to cook up grilled trigger fish tacos (with Kenny's Uncle Ivan's Special 7 chili blend) and pan fried snapper with green tomatoes. We're still thinking of more ways to prepare it. Stay tuned. And, a huge thank you to the guys at Sweet Jody Fishing for helping us to reel in such a fantastic catch!

Alemany Farmer's Market

2010-07-24T10:48:00.001-07:00

It's hard to believe that I live only about 1 mile from one of the best and most affordable farmer's markets in the city, and I had not visited! Alemany hosts a farmer's market as well as a flea market; that's next on my list! But, that all changed at 6:30 this morning. The girls at Mission Pie have developed a weekly habit of arriving early on Saturday to ensure a good parking spot. While there, it's easy to cart away several cases of peaches from Regier Family Farm in Dinuba. A quick stroll around also guarantees ingredients for savory pot pies and treasures for the home kitchen.

Ben was, of course, still sleeping when I returned. I decided to surprise him with a country-style breakfast made from market goodies. Wookie, our new cat, made himself comfortable at the table. Sorry, buddy, blueberries aren't for wookies.

Morning can't start without coffee. So,I put together something that felt a little bit more luxurious than our normal routine: french press brewed from Taylor Maid's goat rock.

While the produce was amazing, I have to admit that I was most impressed with the poached duck eggs. All the rumors that you have heard about fresh eggs - be they duck or chicken - are 100 percent true. It was like nothing I've ever had before but something I plan to have again.

A Lazy Wednesday

2010-07-21T16:49:00.000-07:00

This morning brought a little bit of a much needed adventure. The last few months have been full of the humdrum of everyday life. So, when the San Francisco Professional Food Society posted a meeting and tour of the Hodo Soy Beanery in Oakland, I jumped at the chance. It was even on a Wednesday! That never happens!

Making tofu, as it turns out, is very similar to cheese. The first step is to re-hydrate dried soybeans (Hodo uses only organic, non-GMO beans), mash them up, and "cook" them in very hot water. The result is soy milk.

Once the soy milk is drained off, the pulp must be emptied out. Hodo sells this to hog farmers in the area since there is still a great deal of nutrition left in the shells, etc.

The now warm milk is transferred to large bowls where a coagulant is added. After curds form, they are broken in a process not unsimilar to a paddle turning in an electric mixer. The broken curds are poured out into trays lined with cheesecloth. A tofu master is responsible for distributing the curds evenly and wrapping them in the cloth. The large block is then transferred to the pressing area. Large hydraulic presses are used to press the tofu to the desired thickness, releasing a significant amount of "whey". Once the blocks are set, they are cut (again by hand) and transferred to a cold water bath to cool.

Yuba is another popular product made from soy milk. As soy milk is heated, the proteins and fats coagulate, forming a thin sheet on the surface of the liquid. Once set, a tofu master first cuts the sheet loose.

The sheets are then hung to dry briefly. They are later folded and packaged. Hodo delivers to restaurants and farmers markets. Their products are sold within one day of production and are therefore the freshest tofu products available in the Bay area.

Fortunately, there were samples of some of the very delicious ways that tofu and yuba can be prepared!

When we returned to SF, I dropped Ben off at work and headed over to the Ferry Building to slurp down some Hog Island oysters for lunch. Paired with Acme bread and a glass of Domaine Carneros pink bubbly, they made the perfect snack.

Feeling somewhat gluttonous, I strolled down to Blue Bottle, where they misheard my request for an affogato (Humphry Slocombe ice cream topped with a shot of espresso) for a macchiato (a shot of espresso with a dollop of steamed milk). So, instead, I just had both! All in all, it was a lovely afternoon.

Lamb and Pita Dinner

2010-07-15T09:48:00.000-07:00

A couple of weeks ago, we bid bon voyage to our friend, Suzan, who was on her way to visit family in Turkey. Inspired by her travels, we put together a quick dinner consisting of a few bits and pieces of a lot of eastern Mediterranean cuisines. We started the night off right with a Greek style saganaki, made popular in our home town of Chicago: fried Haloumi cheese, flamed in the pan and finished with a squirt of lemon juice. Let's just say that we were lucky not to have to call the firemen!

The rest of the meal consisted of an eclectic collection of cucumber salad (similar to tzatziki), brown basmati rice cooked pilaf style with pine nuts, marinated olives, and homemade pita.

Rustic Lamb Stew
Serves 4

2 3/4 pounds bony lamb stew meat
flour, for sprinkling
salt and pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium onion, sliced
5 cloves garlic, crushed
1 sprig fresh oregano
1 teaspoon dried Greek oregano
1 large tomato, chopped
2 preserved lemon quarters, finely chopped
4 cups water

1. Set the oven at 375 degrees. On a plate or a rimmed baking sheet, spread the flour. Season the flour with salt and pepper, mix well. Lightly dredge lamb pieces in seasoned flour.
2. Place a metal rack on a rimmed baking sheet. Place dredged lamb pieces on metal rack. Roast for 1 hour.
3. In a large flameproof casserole, heat oil over medium high heat. Cook onion and garlic for 5 minutes or until tender. Add fresh and dried oregano,tomato, and lemons. Cook, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes.
4. Add lamb, water, salt, and pepper. Bring liquids to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 hours.
5. Remove lamb pieces from stew. When it is cool enough to handle, pick off meat and stir it back into stew. Reheat if necessary. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Serve with brown basmati rice.

And, of course, a walnut pie from Mission Pie. It was superb paired with fresh black Mission Figs, lightly whipped cream, and Jim Beam Rye. (For those of you who don't know the story, Mission Pie chooses to make a walnut pie instead of pecan. The reason stems from local, environmental choices. The selected walnut farm is only 60 miles away from the shop, whereas pecans would have to be trucked in all the way from Georgia. The result is delectable.)

Blueberry Cake

2010-07-14T17:38:00.001-07:00

From today's Boston Globe... Lisa's Cake, My Photos...

Blueberry buttermilk tea cake
By Lisa Yockelson, Globe Correspondent | July 14, 2010

Makes one 9-inch loaf

Big handfuls of fresh blueberries belong in a buttery cake, tender with buttermilk. The dark blue rounds float in this vanilla-scented batter and create juicy pockets of flavor. Their taste seems to concentrate during baking. When blues are fresh and plump, with a beautiful silvery sheen, the little rounds retain their shape and offer a mosaic in each slice. On this cake, the finish is a simple dusting of confectioners’ sugar, but many loaves benefit from a glaze. To make one, beat 2 tablespoons milk and 1 teaspoon vanilla into 1 cup confectioners’ sugar just until smooth. Once the loaf is cool, spoon the glaze over it and let it stand until firm. A bowl of whipped cream might seem too extravagant for this loaf. Go ahead and beat cream into clouds. Summer blues only come around once a year.

Butter (for the pan)
Flour (for the pan)
2 1/4 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup fresh blueberries, picked over
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3/4 cup buttermilk
Confectioners’ sugar (for sprinkling)

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Butter a 9-by-5-by-3-inch loaf pan. Dust the pan with flour, tapping out the excess.

2. In a bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt to blend them.

3. In another bowl, toss the blueberries with 1 teaspoon of the flour mixture.

4. In an electric mixer at medium speed, beat the butter for 2 minutes. Add the sugar in two additions, beating for 1 minute after each. Blend in the eggs, one at a time, followed by the vanilla.

5. With the mixer set on low speed, beat in half of the flour mixture, then the buttermilk, then the remaining flour mixture. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula once or twice.

6. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand. With a large rubber spatula fold in the blueberries and any excess flour in the bowl.

7. Spoon the batter into the loaf pan, mounding it slightly in the center. Bake the cake for 55 to 60 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake is clean when withdrawn.

8. Set the cake on a wire rack to cool for 10 minutes. Turn the cake out of the pan and return the cake to the rack to cool. Dust the top with confectioners’ sugar. Cut into slices with a serrated knife.

Lisa Yockelson

Cherry Pie

2010-07-07T08:41:00.000-07:00

Cherry pie
From The Boston Globe
July 7, 2010

Makes one 9-inch pie

Two Fat Cats Bakery in Portland, Maine, uses sour cherries for this classic, but the season is very short. You can use sour cherries from a jar, but with markets full of fresh cherries, it seems a shame to get fruit from a jar. This version uses sweet cherries with both cornstarch and tapioca to thicken the red juices.

PASTRY

2 1/2 cups flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup (12 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter, cut into large chunks
7 tablespoons cold shortening
1/3 cup ice water, or more if necessary
Flour (for sprinkling)

1. In food processor, pulse the flour, sugar, and salt just to sift them.

2. Add the butter and shortening and pulse until the texture has pea-sized chunks of butter still intact.

3. Sprinkle 1/3 cup water over the mixture and pulse until the mixture forms large clumps. Do not let the mixture come together to form a dough. Add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if necessary, to form clumps.

4. Turn the clumps out onto a lightly floured counter and shape gently to form a dough. Divide it in half. Shape each into a disk. Wrap separately in foil and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

5. Let the dough sit at room temperature about 5 minutes before rolling.

6. On a lightly floured counter, roll 1 disk of dough to an 11-inch round. Lift it onto the rolling pin and ease it into the pie pan. Refrigerate the pan.

7. Roll out the other disk of dough to a 10-inch round. Lift it onto the rolling pin and ease it onto a baking sheet. Refrigerate for 20 minutes.

FILLING

2 3/4 pounds fresh cherries, pitted
1 1/4 cups sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
5 teaspoons instant tapioca
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
About 2 tablespoons milk (for brushing)
Extra sugar (for sprinkling)

1. In a bowl toss together cherries, sugar, cornstarch, tapioca, and cinnamon. Transfer cherry filling to the dough in the pan. Cover with the flat dough. Turn the edges under to form a neat hem all around. Crimp the edges.

2. Freeze the pie for 30 minutes.

3. Set the oven at 400 degrees.

4. Brush the dough with milk, sprinkle with sugar, and cut vents evenly around the pie.

5. Bake the pie 1 hour and 15 minutes or until the crust is golden brown and the cherry juices are bubbling up through the vents. During baking, if the edges of the crust brown too much, cover the rim with foil. Cool pie on a wire rack.

Karoline Boehm Goodnick. Adapted from Two Fat Cats Bakery.

Our First Tomato

2010-07-03T17:31:00.000-07:00

Most San Francisco gardeners lament the fact that it never quite gets hot enough to grow a perfect tomato. This could be one advantage that the hotter East Bay has over the city, but I still won't give up my spot in the Mission. Despite the naysayers, we decided to give tomatoes a shot this year. We planted one vine each of two varieties: Roma and Champion.

The roma has been slow to mature with lots of blossoms but very few actual tomatoes. There are a couple of tiny guys on the plant right now, but they are no where near maturity.

The Champion vine seems to be doing slightly better in this climate. It is chock full of fruit, but we probably will not see the half pound beauties that the descriptive tag promises. Instead, it appears that we are growing a whole bunch of cherry sized tomatoes...hmmm...well, maybe they are quite tasty anyway. I harvested the first sample today, but it wouldn't be fair to eat the whole thing (read: mouthfull) before Ben gets home. So, I will wait, and we will divy our tiny tomato amongst the two of us. Heck, I'm just happy that even one ripened!

Classic Dressings - Made At Home

2010-06-29T18:14:00.000-07:00

Check out Sheryl's introduction to classic salad dressings and another writer's recipe for blue cheese dressing!

Thousand Island dressing
By Karoline Boehm Goodnick | June 30, 2010

Makes 2 cups

The origins of Thousand Island dressing are disputed. Some tales stem from the Waldorf Astoria in New York; others from Chicago’s Blackstone hotel. The most common version of the story credits Sophia LaLonde, a fisherman’s wife native to the Thousand Island region between New York and Canada. In the first decades of the 20th century, LaLonde reportedly served a mixture of ketchup, mayonnaise, and chopped pickles over a salad for shore lunch. The names Russian dressing and Thousand Island are often used interchangeably. They start with the same ingredients, although foodlore has it that Russian dressing once contained caviar and aspic (jellied consomme). While Thousand Island commonly partners with iceberg, Russian dressing is schmeared on rye as part of the famed Reuben sandwich. Put it on a double stacked burger, and it becomes a condiment not unlike Special Sauce.

1 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup ketchup
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 small onion, finely chopped
1 small green bell pepper, finely chopped
1 tablespoon capers, chopped
2 tablespoons sweet pickle relish

1. In a bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, ketchup, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Stir in the onion, green pepper, capers, and relish.

2. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

Ranch dressing

Makes 2 cups

A Santa Barbara couple started their own dude ranch in the 1950s, where visitors could take home a sample of the proprietary sauce. The combination of herbs and spices with mayonnaise and buttermilk became so popular that the consumer products giant Clorox purchased the rights to what is now known as Hidden Valley Ranch.

3/4 cup mayonnaise
3/4 cup sour cream
1/2 cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
Pinch of sweet paprika
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, sour cream, buttermilk, vinegar, parsley, thyme, oregano, garlic, paprika, salt, and pepper.

2. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

French dressing

Makes 1 cup

In the 1920s, many hotels had their own version of this dressing, often adding ketchup, sugar, and paprika to commonplace oil and vinegar. Kraft made the sauce mainstream in 1938 by offering two bottled versions as a part of its dressings line.

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup tarragon vinegar or other white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
3 tablespoons ketchup
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
Salt and pepper, to taste
3/4 cup vegetable oil

1. In a bowl, whisk together mustard, vinegar, honey, ketchup, paprika, salt, and pepper.

2. Slowly whisk in the oil a tablespoon at a time. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

Skirt Steaks & Sloppy Joes

2010-06-29T17:54:00.000-07:00

Go from a neat skirt steak to sloppy Joes
By Karoline Boehm Goodnick, Globe Correspondent | June 23, 2010

Summer activities heighten the appetite. If steak is on the menu, you can spend a fortune. Try skirt steak, an affordable cut popular in some Latin cuisines. It’s more fibrous than expensive alternatives, but a quick sear maximizes its tenderness. Cook the steaks in a heavy skillet — cast iron is best — in a well-ventilated kitchen or outside on a hot grill. Give the potatoes a head start in the oven to bake or on a moderately warm spot on the grill because they need more time than the steak. A simple salad rounds out this retro favorite.

Steak, homemade rub, and potatoes turn into sloppy Joes the next day. The sandwich was not named for its unruly appearance but rather for an untidy club in Key West, Fla. Established in 1937, Sloppy Joe’s Bar began the tradition. Customers ribbed former owner Jose Garcia when melted cocktail ice and fresh seafood created a slick and sloppy floor. The sandwich is served on a soft hamburger bun. Using leftover skirt steak, make a flavorful sauce beginning with onions, bell peppers, some of the spice rub, and commercial tomato sauce (choose one that contains tomatoes only, not a marinara). Cut leftover potatoes into wedges, toss them with oil and roast them in a hot oven until crisp on the outside and fluffy in the centers. Two hearty meals fit for hungry hikers or beachcombers.

Spice-rubbed skirt steak with baked potatoes

Serves 4, with leftovers

POTATOES

8 small russet potatoes
1/4 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons chopped chives
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Have on hand a rimmed baking sheet.

2. Prick the potatoes in several places. Place them on the sheet and bake for 1 hour or until tender when pierced with a knife.

3. Reserve 4 potatoes for oven fries.

STEAK

1/4 cup paprika
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons ground cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
6 skirt steaks (6 ounces each), trimmed of excess fat
Salt, to taste
1 tablespoon canola oil

1. In a small bowl, stir together paprika, sugar, cayenne and black pepper, and cumin. Reserve 1 tablespoon of the spice mixture for sloppy Joes.

2. Transfer the spice rub to a rimmed baking sheet. Dip each side of the steak into the rub, coating thoroughly. Sprinkle with salt.

3. In a large, heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium high heat. Cook the steaks for 3 minutes on each side (if the steaks are thick, cook 1 minute longer on each side). Let the steaks rest for a few minutes.

4. Arrange a steak on each of 4 plates. Reserve 2 steaks for sloppy Joes.

5. Split open 4 potatoes and top with sour cream, chives, salt, and pepper.

Sloppy Joes with oven fries

Serves 4

OVEN FRIES

4 russet potatoes, baked until tender and cut into 6 wedges each
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. Set the oven at 500 degrees. Have on hand a rimmed baking sheet.

2. In a bowl, combine potatoes, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Toss well. Transfer the potatoes to the baking sheet, setting them cut sides down. Roast for 10 to 12 minutes, turning halfway through baking, or until potatoes are crisp and golden.

SLOPPY JOES

2 tablespoons canola oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, cored and finely chopped
1 tablespoon reserved spice rub
1 can (about 14 ounces) tomato sauce
Salt and black pepper, to taste
2 cooked skirt steaks (6 ounces each), finely chopped
4 hamburger buns, split horizontally

1. In a deep skillet over high heat, heat the oil. Cook onion, garlic, and bell pepper for 5 minutes, stirring often, or until tender.

2. Stir in the spice rub. Cook for 1 minute, stirring, or until the spices release their aromas.

3. Stir in the tomato sauce, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer, stirring often, for 10 minutes.

4. Stir in the steak, and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

5. Place the bottom half of a bun on each of 4 plates. Divide the sloppy Joe mixture among them. Top with the other half of each bun. Garnish with oven fries.

Pickled Beef

2010-06-26T14:52:00.000-07:00

Pickled beef is quite similar to corned beef, but for whatever reason, I just really like the idea of a jar full of pickled beef. It brings to mind the curious offerings of Eastern European grocery stores whose shelves are chock full of pickled eggs, pigs feet, chicken feet, and whatever other atrocity that I as a red blooded, middle-class, Midwestern, American born in the 1980s reject from the core. (Ok, "reject from the core" might be a bit of an exaggeration, but don't those jars kind of creep you out?) Pickled beef on the other hand is salty, spicy, and magically delicious. An idea that came to Ben a while back, our Ball jar of beef sat in the fridge for more than three weeks. And, while I don't recommend that long of a period of marination, it is kind of cool that we ate it, enjoyed it, and are still here to write about it.

Pickled beef would be a finger-licking topping on homemade tortillas, layered amongst shredded cabbage, thinly sliced radishes, and hot sauce. It would also be great stirred into fried rice or shredded onto a salad. If you're feeling Irish, boil up some cabbage and potatoes and wash it down with a Guinness. The possibilities are endless, but we chose simple, slightly greasy, and traditional: a butter-fried, pickled beef sandwich with 1000 island dressing and a side of red cabbage slaw. Some meals are better for the soul than the ticker.

1 1/2 quarts water
3/4 cup salt
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2 bay leaves
1 cinnamon stick (2 inches), broken
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon allspice berries
1 tablespoon whole black pepper
1 piece (1-inch) ginger, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 1/2 - 2 pounds flat cut beef brisket
12 ounces dark beer

1. In a non-reactive container (such as glass or stainless steel) with a lid, combine all ingredients except for beer. Stir well. Refrigerate for several days.
2. Set the oven to 350 degrees. In a flameproof casserole fitted with a lid, place meat and whatever spices cling to it. Discard brining liquid and other spices. Pour beer over the top.
3. Cover the pan with the lid, and roast for 4 hours, checking several times to be sure that all the liquid has not cooked off. If the liquid has reduced, add a little water.
4. Rest meat for 5 minutes. Slice thinly against the grain.

If you wish to recreate our sandwiches, layer the shredded meat with grated cheese and 1000 island dressing on a slice of sandwich bread. Top with another slice of bread. Fry each side in butter until golden brown, and bake in oven for 5 minutes, or until the cheese is melted. Serve with cabbage slaw.

Gratification

2010-06-24T09:48:00.000-07:00

A few people wondered if making a friend's wedding cake is a burden. Some even questioned why I didn't charge them for the cake. The answer, you see, is in their faces. It's really all the thanks I need.

(Love this shot and all the others taken by Jeremy Lawson! If you are in the market for a wedding photographer, you should most certainly check him out!)

Can't Get Enough...Shiitakes!

2010-06-18T10:51:00.001-07:00

One might say that we are obsessed, but how could you not be? Growing mushrooms is the easiest project I have ever taken on. This time, we are trying out a mini shiitake farm from Far West Fungi. Larger, it will yield many more mushrooms than the BTTR ventures version. Far West Fungi inoculates a large block with spores and everything they will need to grow to maturity. The block is contained inside a plastic bag, sealing in the moisture and maintaining damp environs. Our farm yielded more than 10 shrooms in only a week. The vendors claim that it will re-grow 2-3 crops -- not bad for less than $20. I'm headed up to Sonoma County for some R&R with friends -- hoping to contribute these babies to our dinner. I'll post pics when I do!

Eat More Pie

2010-06-17T11:01:00.000-07:00

In the interest of being prepared for my new endeavors, I picked up a banana cream pie from Mission Pie last night. Really, it was all about research and had nothing to do with the intense cravings that I have been experiencing since first laying eyes on one a few weeks back. I swear. The bottom line is that the pie is now gone, tucked safely into our bellies, and it was well worth the splurge. Take a look for yourself. Warning: Viewing these photos may result in a spontaneous airplane ticket purchase and subsequent trip to San Francisco. Sweet Karoline will not be held responsible for any charges incurred.

Growing More Mushrooms

2010-06-17T10:40:00.001-07:00

Earlier, we reported on our mini mushroom farm, provided by BTTR. Once we returned from the hoopla that was our last trip to Chicago, we busted open the second side and revisited the life of mushroom farming. This time, I photo documented the growth starting on the first day that they really began to resemble mushrooms. It only took 4-5 days before they were enormous! This batch yielded two giant caps and a few smaller. We harvested the larger ones and left the others to grow to maturity. We'll see how it turns out. The process is really fascinating and well worth the initial investment of only $15. Pick one up for the kids this summer; I guarantee they will be fascinated!

Mindful Eating

2010-06-15T17:22:00.001-07:00

The concepts of being mindful and appreciative of the gifts that this world has blessed us with are not new or novel. In fact, as we ride out this particularly charming period in time now being referred to as the Great Recession, folks are apt to remind you to be grateful for what you have at least once a day. So, despite the fact that it may seem redundant or overdone, I too am here to impress upon you the importance of being thankful for the little things in life that make you happy, put a smile on your face, or even simply help you live to see tomorrow.

A high school pal of my brother writes a blog called Dash of Stash. A tech guy by trade, Mike has developed a fondness for cooking, and he writes very eloquently of his kitchen adventures. Recently, he posted one definition of food appreciation, and I will admit that I wish more people shared his sentiments. It is definitely a site worth visiting.

Second, I found myself with an extraordinary number of hours on my hands during which time I had nothing better to do than surf the web - a habit that I rarely find time for. Please don't ask why I was granted such time, as I fear I might incriminate myself by sharing the answer. While killing time, I scrolled through a good number of Sheryl Julian and Devra First's contributions to the Boston Globe's blog, Dishing. One post, submitted by Devra, called attention to the story of Ed Murrieta, formerly the food critic of the Tacoma News, now living on an income that consists solely of food stamps. Murrieta, unable to find work, is living in a "rented" trailer that he pays for through work exchange. The silver lining (because why would I post a depressing story without a silver lining?) is that Murrieta enjoys the challenge of creating nourishing, palatable meals that are a pleasure to consume even when they contain items like canned "pork in juices." He says, "Mine is gastronome's quest to eat well, to maintain a nutritious diet, to satisfy my foodie cravings, and to help those who help me." Instead of lemonade from lemons, Murrieta uses the aforementioned canned atrocity to make poor man's rillete. Not bad at all.

Thanksgiving is not just for November. Take a moment each day to remember the little things that make life worth living.

Shallots

2010-06-13T19:21:00.000-07:00

I wrote this a little while back for Relish magazine, and while I did receive a check, I never saw the published article...hmmm...so, I thought I would share it with you (unedited, of course)...

An Overlooked Bulb
It was once believed that contemporary gourmands had to introduce the shallot to Americans. Julia Child described the unknown member of the onion family at length and often suggested mincing the white part of a green onion when the violet bulbs could not be found. The truth, in fact, is that cooks like Ms. Child re-introduced the shallot. Recipe collections dating back to the founding of this country contain countless entries which almost all call for “an Eschalot or two”. Yet, somewhere along the line, their use fell out of favor. Fortunately for us, they’ve been back for a while. Dry shallots (with papery skin like garlic) are available year round; fresh green youngsters pop up in the spring. Milder than their cousins, the cloves lend a subtle piquant nature to a dish. Roasted, they are sweeter and luscious. Raw, they are somewhat sharp and zippy. Often unnoticed, shallots are a gem on any plate.

Roasted Shallots

This technique yields two recipes from one. Adorn chicken or pork with the roasted shallots and garlic. Set aside two shallots along with the cooking oil to make a light vinaigrette, perfect for spring greens.

Makes 1 cup roasted shallots plus 1/2 cup vinaigrette

12 shallots, peeled
4 cloves garlic, peeled
3 sprigs rosemary
3 sprigs thyme
½ cup olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons vinegar

1. Preheat oven to 400F.
2. Toss together all ingredients except for vinegar. Roast, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes, or until shallots are soft and caramelized.
3. Drain shallots; discard herbs. Reserve oil and 2 shallots; cool.
4. In a food processor, combine 2 shallots with vinegar. While the machine is running, slowly drizzle in the reserved oil. Season with salt and pepper.

Shallot Gremolata

A simple garnish, the combination of punchy flavors will perk up any beef stew, grilled steak, baked potato, or braised lamb. To top tacos, substitute cilantro for parsley and lime zest for lemon.

Makes 1/2 cup

5 shallots, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Zest of 2 lemons
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a small bowl, mix all of the ingredients.

Dining In

2010-06-10T13:58:00.000-07:00

With meals like this at home, why on earth would I ever want to eat out?

"California" Shrimp Boil - decidedly Californian as a result of the addition of locally grown artichokes! Washed down with our favorite white, gruner veltliner, from Austria (ie the motherland!...do I hear, "Dad, grandma's from Chicago."?)

And yet, another meal enjoyed on our glorious deck...this one was in the harsh light of midday, instead of a cool evening under the setting sun. We noshed on an egg sandwich, served between the layers of a sourdough bun I made myself and garnished with homegrown watercress and lettuce. With an additional nod to our Austrian relatives, we indulged in a Trumer Pils - produced at the Berkeley extension of a Salzburg brewery that's been around for over 400 years. With lunch done, I think it's time for a nap...well, either that or more laundry.

Puttanesca Sauce - Two Ways

2010-06-10T13:42:00.000-07:00

Chicken and penne mixed up in some saucy stories
By Karoline Boehm Goodnick, Globe Correspondent | June 9, 2010

Hot and lively, much like the ladies of easy virtue after whom the dish was named, puttanesca sauce originated in southern Italy. Puttana is the Italian word for prostitute, and there are several tales spun about the dish. Some believe that the intense aromas of garlic, anchovies, and olives lured potential customers, who were served pasta and sauce while waiting for the next available girl. Others say the sauce’s strong flavors are symbolic of the women of the night. Yet another account suggests that state-run brothels in the 1950s were only required to give their employees one day off a week, so they depended on sauces made with shelf stable ingredients.

The original working girls knew a little something about how to use their time. Easy to make in large quantities, puttanesca is a 30-minute sauce. Use it fresh from the pot to top pounded, sauteed chicken breasts. Later in the week, dress penne with puttanesca. Adapt the recipe to your tastes, adding more or less garlic, crushed red pepper, or anchovies.

Broccoli rabe, also known as rapini, is a leafy, slightly bitter version of its well-known relative. It is quite popular in Italy and makes a good partner for puttanesca. Blanch it quickly to remove some bitterness and soften the vegetable. Later, saute garlic with the greens to heighten the flavor. Chop any leftover broccoli rabe and stir it into the penne. Spicy puttanesca and bitter rabe is a pairing the saucy women would have liked.

Chicken with puttanesca sauce

Serves 4, with leftovers

SAUCE

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
4 anchovy fillets, chopped
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 cup red wine
2 tablespoons capers
1 cup pitted Kalamata olives
2 cans (28 ounces) diced tomatoes
Salt and black pepper, to taste

1. In a large flameproof casserole over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes or until softened.

2. Add the anchovies, red pepper, and oregano. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute or until the spices release their aromas.

3. Add wine, and simmer until it reduces by half.

4. Add the capers, olives, tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to medium, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until tomatoes form a chunky sauce. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and black pepper, if you like.

5. Reserve 2 1/2 cups sauce for the penne. Set the remaining sauce aside for the chicken.

CHICKEN

4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves
Salt and black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons canola oil

1. Heat oven at 400 degrees. Place the chicken breasts, 2 at a time, between 2 large sheets of plastic wrap. Use the smooth side of a meat mallet or the bottom of a heavy skillet to pound the breasts to about 1/2-inch thickness. Sprinkle with salt and black pepper.

2. In a large heavy skillet with a heatproof handle, heat the canola oil over high heat. Add the chicken and cook for 4 to 5 minutes or until golden on the bottom. Turn and transfer the skillet to the oven.

3. Continue cooking the chicken for 5 minutes or until it is cooked through. Transfer to a plate.

4. Return the skillet to high heat. Add the puttanesca sauce that you reserved for the chicken. Bring the sauce to a boil. Place 1 chicken breast half on each of 4 dinner plates. Top each breast with puttanesca sauce. Garnish with broccoli rabe.

Broccoli rabe

Serves 4

Salt and pepper, to taste
1 bunch broccoli rabe, ends trimmed
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/4 cup bread crumbs
1/4 cup grated Parmesan

1. Turn on the broiler. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add broccoli rabe and return the water to a boil. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the broccoli rabe is almost tender but still bright green.

2. Drain the broccoli rabe and rinse with cold water.

3. Squeeze the broccoli rabe to remove excess water. Pat it dry with paper towels.

4. Wipe out the skillet. Add the olive oil. Add the garlic, and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 to 2 minutes or until it begins to soften.

5. Add the broccoli, and cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes or until it is tender and beginning to brown.

6. In a bowl, combine the bread crumbs and Parmesan. Sprinkle the mixture over the broccoli. Place the pan under the broiler, setting it about 8 inches from the element. Broil for 1 minute, watching the pan carefully, until the crumbs are golden.

Penne puttanesca

Serves 4

2 1/2 cups puttanesca sauce
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 pound penne
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1/4 cup grated Parmesan

1. In a large flameproof casserole, bring the puttanesca to a boil. Lower the heat, cover the pan, and keep warm.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the penne and cook for 8 minutes, stirring often, or until pasta is tender but still has some bite.

3. Drain the pasta.

4. Add a ladle of sauce to each of 4 shallow bowls. Add pasta to each bowl. Top with more sauce. Garnish with parsley and Parmesan.

Strawberry Pie

2010-06-08T18:29:00.001-07:00

Strawberry season - while it came to California a while back - has finally made it of the rest of the country. If you find yourself unable to resist several flats, here is one delicious way to use them up!

It's Like Buttah

2010-06-07T08:46:00.000-07:00

Butter can be made at home easily. In the old days, butter was made by using a wooden churn. Cream is the fattiest portion of cows’ milk that is skimmed from the surface. Pioneers poured cream into their churn and beat the cream by hand until the fat molecules separated from the liquid, creating butter and buttermilk. Today, we can replicate the technique using a stand mixer or a hand held mixer. Homemade butter should be wrapped in plastic and can be stored in the refrigerator for as long as store bought butter.

1 quart heavy cream, cold

1. Pour cream into the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with a whisk.
2. Beat cream on medium speed for about 20 minutes, scraping down the sides frequently, or until the butter separates from the buttermilk.
3. Pour both the butter and buttermilk through cheesecloth. Squeeze out as much water as possible. Discard buttermilk.
4. Wipe out mixer bowl. Return butter to the bowl.
5. Pour a small amount of ice water over the butter. Do not pour in any ice cubes.
6. Using your hands, knead the butter to release any remaining buttermilk. Drain water, and repeat process until the water is clear.
7. If desired, season the butter with salt, honey, herbs, or spices. Transfer to a container, and refrigerate.

Cake Time

2010-06-06T09:13:00.000-07:00

How on earth do I keep getting suckered into these projects?? At least it looked (and tasted) pretty good!
(The photo below is from event planner, Vera Devera's, site!)

Wedding Bells

2010-06-04T11:18:00.000-07:00

Congratulations to my dear friends, Kelsea and Ryan, who tied the knot last weekend! It was an honor to be a part of their big day as a bridesmaid and a baker! Love you both!

Before & After

2010-05-26T20:11:00.001-07:00

Tonight is a monumental night in the Boehm-Goodnick "unprocessed" house...we harvested our first non-herb crops! (Yes, folks, that's right, it's the little things.) Thanks to the Berkeley based urban mushroom farming venture BTTR (Back To The Roots), we grew pearl oyster mushrooms in our bedroom! (They require little light, and it is our shadiest spot. I promise you that we don't have some kind of sick mushroom fetish.) BTTR uses recycled coffee grounds from Peet's - claiming to divert 7000 pounds of grounds from landfills weekly -- instead using them as the "soil" for the fungus. 10 days with daily misting and voila, a hefty bunch of meaty shrooms.

We gave the fungi a quick toss with olive oil, salt and pepper and popped them in the oven for a few minutes. Then, we spooned them over a bed of mesclun lettuce harvested from the farm on the deck. All in all, a fabulously unprocessed meal.

Validation

2010-05-26T15:23:00.000-07:00

Nothing makes me happier than external validation...More proof that our crazed ideas about "un-processed" eating and home gardening are on par with the great minds of the food and health industries??? The cover of Diabetes Forecast magazine (published by the American Diabetes Association)features the following headlines: "Homemade! Food tastes best when you do it yourself!" and "Grow it. Got Sunlight? Get Gardening!" Good food, good health; you're in control!

(Yes, I do see the irony in posting a whopping slice of strawberry pie alongside an article giving a nod to DIABETES Forecast magazine, but, heck. I made it myself!)

Eggplant Roll-ups

2010-05-26T13:48:00.000-07:00

Eggplant roll-ups
May 26, 2010

Serves 6

These roll-ups can either start the meal or accompany the main course at a barbecue. Create long, wide planks by slicing the eggplant lengthwise, then grill and fill with roasted red peppers and mozzarella. Roasted red peppers are available in jars at many markets, but it takes only a few minutes to grill your own. Blacken the skins completely so they come off easily when cool. Serve these on their own or accompanied by pasta and garnished with pesto or a favorite marinara and a sprinkle of fresh herbs.

3 red bell peppers
2 large eggplants, trimmed and sliced 1/4inch thick lengthwise
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
8 ounces mozzarella, cut into thick matchsticks

1. Light a charcoal grill and wait for the coals to turn gray; mound them in the center of the grill. Or set a gas grill to medium-high. Have on hand a rimmed baking sheet and toothpicks.

2. Place red peppers over the hottest part of the grill. Roast for 15 minutes, turning often, or until charred. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and set aside for 20 minutes.

3. On baking sheet, arrange 1 layer of eggplant. Brush with oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Turn the slices, and repeat on the other side. Continue on all the slices.

4. Grill the eggplant for 2 minutes on a side or until they are tender and charred. Return the eggplant to the baking sheet; set aside.

5. Remove and discard the skins, seeds, and stems from the red peppers. Slice the peppers into thin strips. In a small bowl, combine the peppers with vinegar, salt, and pepper.

6. Lay the eggplant slices on a work surface with the widest end facing you. Place several strips of red pepper and a few pieces of mozzarella across the widest part of the eggplant. Roll the eggplant around the filling; secure with a toothpick. Repeat with the remaining slices.

7. Set the roll-ups on a cool grill. Cover and cook for 3 minutes or until the cheese melts.

Panzanella

2010-05-26T13:33:00.000-07:00

This could be the best salad that I have ever eaten...no lie...I wouldn't falsify such a grandiose statement. Try it, and let me know if you disagree. P.S. It is best when washed down with a glass of chianti on a lazy Sunday (or Thursday, if you will) afternoon. (P.S. Did I mention how terribly easy it is to throw together?)

Panzanella
The Boston Globe, May 26, 2010

Serves 6

The traditional Italian salad panzanella was born from the need to use up stale bread. Some versions call for soaking the loaf in water. It’s more luxurious to rub a crusty baguette with olive oil and garlic and grill the pieces for a few minutes, lending smoky notes to the finished bowl of arugula, tomatoes, and red onion. For a pretty presentation, choose multicolored cherry tomatoes.

1 baguette, halved lengthwise
5 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
3 cloves garlic, halved
1/2 pint cherry tomatoes in mixed colors, quartered
2 large tomatoes, cut into wedges
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1 bunch fresh arugula, stems trimmed
1/3 cup chopped fresh basil
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
4 ounces fresh goat cheese, crumbled

1. Light a charcoal grill and wait for the coals to turn gray or set a gas grill to medium.

2. Brush the baguette with 3 tablespoons of olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

3. Grill the baguette for 2 minutes on a side or until crisp and slightly charred. Remove bread from grill and rub with garlic cloves. Tear into bite-sized pieces.

4. In a large bowl, combine grilled bread, cherry and regular tomatoes, onion, arugula, basil, vinegar, and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss gently.

5. Divide the salad among 6 plates and sprinkle with goat cheese.

Icebox Cake

2010-05-26T13:27:00.001-07:00

Icebox Cake from Boston Globe May 26, 2010

So good you'll keep a spoon next to the fridge, shamelessly reaching in for another bite every time you walk by...which you will do on purpose, without reason to actually enter the kitchen...

Canned goods

2010-05-19T13:52:00.000-07:00

We all know they're convenient, but studies continue to show that canned food is just not good for long term health. The first article you might want to read discusses the need for FDA regulation on sodium levels in processed foods - known to heighten heart health concerns related to high blood pressure. (Thank you, Mike, for sharing this link with me.)

The second is a call to ban the use of hazardous BPAs, found in the lining of metal cans. (Thank you, Shaun, for bringing this one to my attention.) Better off just stopping by the produce market on the way home from work...

Chicken Cacciatore/ Barbecue Chicken Stromboli

2010-05-19T09:32:00.000-07:00

These dishes pull chicken legs in different directions
By Karoline Boehm Goodnick, Globe Correspondent | May 19, 2010

Chicken legs are often overlooked in favor of their leaner counterpart, boneless, skinless breasts. Legs have more flavor and usually cost much less pound for pound. For this dish, choose leg quarters, which means the legs and thighs are attached. Simmer them in a quick cacciatore, and while the dish is bubbling away in the oven, put on a pot of rice. Ladle the sauce over the rice, and top each portion with a leg. Pour a glass of Chianti, set aside some of the chicken for tomorrow, and settle in for a nice meal.

Stromboli is Philadelphia’s answer to the calzone, an Italian treat made by forming a half moon with pizza dough and filling it with traditional pizza toppings. Typically loaded with mozzarella and pepperoni, stromboli is shaped more like a burrito than a calzone. Start by stretching pizza dough with your hands (you don’t have to make it; many markets and pizza shops sell the dough by the pound), taking care not to tear any holes. Once the dough grows to a size that no longer seems manageable, set it on a baking sheet, and continue stretching until it fills the pan.

Mix leftover, shredded, chicken and cacciatore sauce with bottled barbecue sauce and mozzarella. Mound the filling in the center of the dough and seal it. Brush with an egg wash so the top browns. Once the stromboli bakes, let it cool for a few minutes. If you slice it too hot, the pieces will not hold together. Don’t fret over minor blowouts; simply tuck the filling back inside with a spoon. Serve with a salad, so you get nutrition plus comfort.

Chicken cacciatore

Serves 4 with leftovers

Serve this old-fashioned Italian-American dish with rice.

1 tablespoon canola oil
1 large onion, sliced
2 bell peppers, cored and sliced
3 cloves garlic, chopped
Salt and black pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 can (28 ounces) diced tomatoes
10 green olives, pitted and chopped
1/2 cup white wine
1/2 cup water
6 chicken leg quarters

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. In a large flameproof casserole, heat canola oil over medium heat. Add onion, bell peppers, garlic, salt, and black pepper. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes, or until vegetables soften.

2. Stir in oregano, tomatoes, olives, wine, and water. Bring liquid to a boil. Remove pan from heat.

3. Sprinkle chicken legs with salt and pepper. Place the legs in the pan, skin side up, leaving the skin exposed.

4. Bake for 1 hour and 20 minutes or until the chicken is brown and pulling away from the bone. Reserve 1 cup of sauce and 2 whole legs for the stromboli.

Chicken stromboli

Serves 4

Pizza dough is sold by the pound. You can buy good commercially made dough in many markets and pizza shops.

Olive oil (for the pan)
2 whole cooked chicken legs, skinned and shredded
1 cup leftover cacciatore sauce
1/2 cup barbecue sauce
1 cup shredded mozzarella
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 pound pizza dough
1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water (for egg wash)

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Oil a large rimmed baking sheet.

2. Remove the skin and bones from the legs. Shred the meat and transfer to a large bowl. Add the cacciatore and barbecue sauces, mozzarella, salt, and pepper.

3. Begin to stretch the pizza dough in your hands, holding it above the counter. When you can’t stretch it anymore, set it in the pan, and continue stretching the dough until it fills the pan completely.

4. Place the chicken mixture in a long thin lengthwise mound down the center of the dough, leaving a 1-inch border at the ends. Fold over the edges of dough on both short sides.

5. Fold the closest edge of the dough over the filling. Using a pastry brush, brush the egg mixture on the dough.

6. Roll the encased filling away from you toward the top of the pan, so the stromboli seam is now on the bottom.

7. Brush the entire stromboli with egg wash and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cut three shallow diagonal slits on top of the dough making sure not to cut all the way through the dough.

8. Bake for 30 minutes or until the top is golden brown and the filling is bubbly through the holes.

9. Remove from the oven, and set aside for 10 minutes. Slice with a serrated knife.

Lemon-Pecan Butter Cookies

2010-05-19T09:08:00.001-07:00

Lemon-pecan butter cookies

I styled these cookies a while back, and I'll have you know that they are irresistable. Many times, we pawn off the results of styling or recipe testing on unsuspecting neighbors or friends like Suzan and Bryan. Other times, the temptation to scarf down the entire batch before the goodies even have a chance of being transported is far too great. This was one of those times, and I am sad to say that after popping 6 in my mouth while shooting the photo, I promptly dumped the rest into the trash. Willpower has never been my forte. The cakey treats remind me of my grandmother's pecan crescents, but they aren't as cloyingly sweet - probably due to the addition of lemon. The best part is that they are surprisingly simple -- a great project to get husbands and kids into the kitchen! (Although, in many of my friends' homes, it is the women who need the call of an easy recipe to invite them into a room of the house rarely entered!) Click on the link to view the recipe in full.

Machas!!!

2010-05-19T08:50:00.000-07:00

Parmesan Clams from the Boston Globe 5.19.10

Serves 4

In Chile, where this popular dish is called machas a la parmigiana, you’ll find it made with Pacific razor clams. New England littlenecks make a fine substitute. Although Parmesan and shellfish seem an unlikely pair, the results are delectable. Steam the bivalves open, and then thicken the juices with a little cornstarch to maintain the briny sea flavors and balance the richness of the cheese. Here, the cheese is a combination of Asiago and Parmesan. The clams combine elements of the Mediterranean and the Pacific. Serve this appetizer before big bowls of pasta dinner or as part of a barbecue.

3 tablespoons white wine
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
18 littleneck clams
1 tablespoon water
1 teaspoon cornstarch
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt and pepper, to taste
3/4 cup grated Asiago cheese
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

1. Turn on the broiler. Have on hand a 12-inch baking dish.

2. In a large pot, bring the wine, garlic, and olive oil to a boil. Add the clams and cover with the lid. Steam clams for 5 minutes or until they just begin to open.

3. Using a slotted spoon, remove clams from the liquid and set aside until cool enough to handle.

4. Stir the water and cornstarch until smooth. Whisk the cornstarch mixture and lemon juice into the clam cooking liquid and cook, stirring, for 1 minute or until it thickens. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper.

5. Snap off and discard the top of each clam shell. Loosen the clam meat from the other shell, but do not remove it. Set the clams in the dish.

6. Add a spoonful of cooking liquid to each clam. In a bowl, mix the Asiago and Parmesan cheeses. Top the clams with grated cheese.

7. Broil the clams, checking them often, for 5 minutes or until the cheese is golden brown and bubbly. Sprinkle with parsley.

Salsa Verde

2010-05-12T09:31:00.000-07:00

Last week, we had a small fiesta in honor of Cinco de Mayo. It only seemed fitting given the ethnicity of the majority of our neighbors. We don't claim to be experts on their cuisine, but we certainly have a good time trying. A few margaritas and even more Negra Modelos washed down our meal of grilled snapper, jicama/cucumber salad, grilled nopales (hence the photo above in which Ben is removing the spines of the cactus), and the quintessential chips with guac. The super easy salsa verde recipe below made a great addition to the fish tacos. You could also pair it with enchiladas, chilaquiles, or schmear it on a good old American burger.

Salsa Verde
Makes 2 cups

4 large or 10 tiny tomatillos
1/4 cup green hot sauce (Try El Yucateco if you don't want to make your own)
1/2 avocado
1 scallion, chopped
1 clove garlic
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a pot of salted, boiling water, blanch tomatillos for 4 minutes or until tender. Drain.
2. Combine all ingredients in blender.
3. Puree until smooth. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

Spring Mushrooms

2010-05-12T09:12:00.000-07:00

Roasted mushrooms with spring garlic
May 12, 2010

Serves 4

Spring yields an abundance of mushrooms, including morels and porcini. Choose an assortment for this dish, chopping them into an array of shapes. Add mild spring garlic, also known as green garlic, plucked from the ground before the bulb has a chance to develop, and chop the tops, too.

2 teaspoons olive oil
1 bell pepper, chopped
5 stalks green garlic, chopped
1 pound mixed mushrooms, roughly chopped
Salt and black pepper, to taste
2 teaspoons crushed red pepper
1/2 cup water
4 thick slices bread, toasted

1. Set the oven at 350. In an ovenproof skillet, heat the oil over high heat. Add bell pepper, garlic, mushrooms, salt, and black pepper. Cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Stir in red pepper and water. Transfer the skillet to the oven. Cook for 15 minutes.

2. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper, if you like. Spoon mushrooms over bread.

Another Step in the Process

2010-05-07T20:12:00.001-07:00

In Chicago, we lived in an itsy-bitsy studio. It was the bargain of the year at only $585 per month; divide that by two, and you've got the deal of the decade! (In case you were wondering, I also walked uphill both ways in the snow to get to work.) Boston gave us a garden apartment - which is just the fancy real estate term for the cramped space next to the boiler, laundry facilities, and trash. They throw in a bunch of steaming, clanging pipes and very little sunlight for no additional charge. But, now, we live in sunny CA, and for the first time in our married lives, we have an outdoor space! Hooray! We've taken total advantage of the situation and covered every square inch with potted plants. The babies (no, we don't have pets, and we don't have human offspring) are leafy greans including mesclun, watercress, thyme, oregano, basil, lavender, rosemary, sage, mint, cilantro, parsley, hot peppers, tomatoes, marigolds, and nasturtiums. Our green thumbs are not yet tried and true, but we're jumping in with both feet! The cool San Francisco seabreeze might provide obstacles to a bumper tomato crop, but we're hoping that the Mission sunshine will move things along in the right direction. It's difficult to remember not to water desert natives like sage and the succulents while the poor, dehydrated mint wilts in the other corner. Chives sprouted from seeds, but Golden Gate Gardening informed us that it could take up to two years for a substantial crop. No worries, though, we already have one embryonic tomato! I'm looking forward to regular herb harvesting and the day to come when I can slice into a homegrown tomato. Even if nothing else comes of it, the daily nurturing is soothing; peeking through the window at our crops puts a smile on my face every time.

Roast Turkey Breast and Croque Madames

2010-05-06T09:03:00.000-07:00

Also from Boston Globe on April 28, 2010...

A boneless turkey breast will give you all the glory of a roasted centerpiece, but keep calories down. Add some vegetables to the roasting pan, and you have a grand meal without much effort. Begin by roasting the vegetables without the turkey. This may seem counterintuitive but the breast will cook in a jiffy. You will get beautiful results — moist, juicy poultry — by using a meat thermometer. If it’s languishing in the bottom of your utensil drawer, now’s the time pull it out.

Save some sliced meat for the famous French croque-madame; it’s a croque-monsieur, made with Gruyere cheese and highly seasoned ham, with an egg on top. In this version, turkey replaces ham; butter-smeared toast and a rich mornay sauce still make the dish plenty rich. And serve it with knives and forks; this isn’t finger food.

Once the cheese sauce is prepared, keep it warm (it thickens as it cools and loses its velvety consistency). Spoon the sauce over the golden sandwiches and slide them under the broiler. Don’t go away; they will brown in seconds. The defining element is a sunny-side up egg, placed delicately on top so the yolk stays intact. The egg takes the sandwich from a simple monsieur to a decadent madame.

Roast turkey breast with root vegetables
Serves 4 with leftovers

2 medium turnips, cut into large wedges
2 small parsnips, cut into large wedges
2 shallots, halved
5 small red potatoes, cut into large wedges
Olive oil (for sprinkling)
Salt and pepper, to taste
3 pound boneless turkey breast
1/2 cup white wine or water
3 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves chopped

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. In a large roasting pan, combine the turnips, parsnips, shallots, and potatoes. Sprinkle with olive oil, salt, and pepper.

2. Roast the root vegetables for 30 minutes.

3. Remove the pan from the oven, and stir the vegetables. Set the turkey breast in the center. Sprinkle with olive oil, salt, pepper, and thyme. Pour the wine or water onto the root vegetables.

4. Return the pan to the oven. Continue roasting for 45 minutes or until a meat thermometer inserted into the center of the turkey registers 160 degrees. (Total roasting time is 1 hour and 15 minutes.)

5. Remove the pan from the oven and let it rest in a warm place for 5 minutes. The meat temperature will rise to 165 degrees.

6. Transfer the turkey to a cutting board. Remove any strings or mesh bag from the meat. Cut the meat into slices. (Set aside 4 slices for the sandwiches.) Serve the turkey with root vegetables and any juices in the pan.

Turkey croque-madames
Serves 4

SAUCE

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
2/3 cup milk
1 ounce Gruyere, grated ( 1/2 cup)
Pinch grated nutmeg
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a skillet, bring several inches of hot water to a boil. In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, melt butter. Whisk in flour. Cook, stirring often, for 3 minutes.

2. Slowly whisk in milk. Bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat to medium-low and stir in the Gruyere. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Set the saucepan in the skillet to keep warm.

SANDWICH

3 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
8 slices sandwich bread
4 slices leftover turkey breast
2 ounces Gruyere, grated (1 cup)
Salt and pepper, to taste
4 eggs

1. Turn on the broiler. Have on hand 2 large skillets with ovenproof handles.

2. Lay out 4 slices of bread. Divide the turkey and Gruyere evenly among them. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Cover each with a slice of bread. Lightly butter top sides of the sandwiches. (Use 1 tablespoon now and 1 tablespoon later on the other side.)

3. Over medium heat, heat the skillets. Place 2 sandwiches, buttered sides down, in each skillet. Cook for 4 minutes or until golden on the bottom, pressing the tops lightly with a metal spatula. Butter the tops. Flip the sandwiches to cook the other side, pressing lightly, or until the undersides are golden.

4. Remove the sauce from the water; wipe the bottom. Spoon sauce over each sandwich, dividing it evenly. Place the skillets under the broiler and cook for 1 to 2 minutes or until the sauce is browned in spots and bubbling. Set aside in a warm place.

5. In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. Crack the eggs, one at a time, into a bowl, then tip them into the skillet. Cook 3 minutes, or until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny. If you prefer a firmer yolk, cook for 1 minute more. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

6. Using a wide metal spatula, slide 1 egg on top of each sandwich.

Grilled Cheese and Tomato Soup

2010-05-06T08:44:00.001-07:00

With all the hoopla of my mom's milestone birthday celebration and a dear friend's bachelorette party/shower, I neglected to post my work that appeared in last week's Boston Globe. This article was a milestone of its own: my first lead story! Through a serious amount of digging, I was able to unearth quite a lot of information about the history of this dynamic duo. Today, there are chefs across the country doing really fun stuff with this comfortable, old standby. Be sure to click on the link below; there are a few great pics of the pairing - including an ad from Velveeta dating back to the 1950s. Plus, the site displays several variations on the grilled cheese theme.

Soup and Sandwich 2.0

It has all the qualities of classic comfort food: a steaming mug of sweet tomato soup served with a sandwich of melting cheese inside slices of golden buttery toast. Moms have been presenting grilled cheese sandwiches to happy children for decades.

Once relegated to kitchen tables, school cafeterias, lunch counters, and diners, this satisfying combo is making a comeback in popular culture and high-end restaurants, and is poised to become the new mac and cheese. Slices of processed cheese and ordinary white bread have been replaced by farmstead favorites and chewy or rich loaves. The top lunchtime seller at Woodward in the Ames Hotel consists of thick brioche, comté and Gruyere cheeses, tomato, and applewood smoked bacon. For dipping or slurping there’s a side of fresh tomato soup. “The brioche sops it up nicely,’’ says executive chef Mark Goldberg. At the gastropub Garden at the Cellar, Iggy’s dense pullman is grilled with Vermont cheddar, and at Restaurant Dante, every Tuesday night you can order a different $2 grilled Italian-inspired cheese sandwich. Owner Dante de Magistris says, “I love all types of food, but crunchy bread and oozy cheese is crazy satisfying.’’

Rick Katz sees a similar response. At Picco, diners indulge in Clear Flour’s sourdough bread slathered with a five-cheese mornay sauce, filled with cheddar and brushed with butter. “We offer more interesting panini,’’ says the South End restaurateur, “but none sell as well as grilled cheese.’’

Some say that the young renegade chefs of the last decade who wanted to stamp a menu with their own imprint brought the old-fashioned dish back in the limelight. Others credit celebrity chef Thomas Keller. In 1999, he described a grilled farmhouse cheddar and Early Girl tomato consomme in “The French Laundry Cookbook.’’ He describes it as “a dish straight out of American childhood, refined into haute cuisine.’’

If Keller is indeed the source of the updated classic, he’s spawned a host of food trucks and eateries across the country. San Francisco residents Tiffany Lam and Alex Rando operate a weekly street cart they call Toasty Melts, which offers seven variations and notifies customers of their whereabouts via Twitter (the most popular is ABC — apple, bacon, and cheddar). Instead of soup, Lam makes tomato sauce, which patrons use for dipping. Ohio is home to both Tom + Chee (a booth in Cincinnati’s Fountain Square) and Melt Bar & Grilled in Cleveland, where a tattoo of the restaurant’s grilled cheese logo earns patrons a 25 percent discount for life. Portland, Ore., has the Grilled Cheese Grill, a food stand where patrons dine at picnic tables or in a school bus. In Los Angeles, you can find the Grilled Cheese Truck, where hot weather calls for tomato soup shooters instead of soup in mugs.

All are playing to an audience primed to enjoy the duo. Americans consume an estimated 2 billion grilled cheese sandwiches every year, often with a serving of tomato soup. In its most iconic form, it is simply two slices of white bread, one slice of American cheese, a pat of butter, and a can of Campbell’s condensed tomato soup thinned with milk or water.

The combination is a post-World War II phenomenon, but both go back centuries. Winchester food historian Barbara Haber thinks it may have nomadic roots. “I picture ancient shepherds toasting chunks of bread and cheese over an open fire,’’ she writes in an e-mail. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Englishmen dined on baked cheese sandwiches. In “The Queen Cookery Books’’ series, S. Beaty-Pownall describes a popular technique in London at the turn of the 20th century: “Cut slices from some rich cheese, about one-third of an inch thick, and place these between slices of brown bread and butter . . . set these sandwiches in the oven and serve at once.’’

The British were not the only fans of gooey cheese and crisped bread. Jacky Robert, the French-born chef and owner of Petit Robert Bistro restaurants, describes the origins of croque-monsieur, which he was raised on. “A croque was a traditional way to serve old bread in Provence by dipping it in egg and herb,’’ he writes in an e-mail, then it was “pan fried to give a crunch.’’ The dish, called croque, was topped with ham and comte cheese in the early 1900s. When a waiter served it to an elegant gentleman, he would say, “Voici votre croque, monsieur.’’ (Here is your croque, sir.)

Tomato soup had a rockier entry into culinary annals. The red fruits, once believed to be poisonous, gained popularity in European kitchens in the 19th century and in the fashionable cream soups of the time.

Enter Campbell’s Soup Co., based in New Jersey and originally known as the Joseph Campbell Preserve Co. John T. Dorrance developed the formula for condensed soups in 1897; tomato soup was among the original five offerings. The idea was that homemakers needed only a can of water to thin the soup for serving. Lighter cans were cheaper to ship.

Around the same time, James L. Kraft, frustrated by the short shelf life of the cheese he peddled, turned it into “processed’’ cheese, which sustained soldiers in both world wars and was sold to the public in the 1920s as Kraft American Cheese. It was not until the 1940s that a growing fondness for sandwiches inspired a pre-sliced version of the cheese. Another 25 years passed before Kraft marketed individually wrapped singles. Wonder Bread unburdened homemakers who had to slice their own loaves by introducing packaged sliced bread in 1925.

Soldiers arrived home from war with a taste for processed foods. Lynne Olver of www.foodtimeline.org writes, “Government issue cookbooks tell us World War II Navy cooks broiled hundreds of ‘American cheese filling sandwiches,’ ’’ which she describes as “economical, easy to make, [and] met government nutrition standards.’’

The transition to the home front was easy. “These sandwiches were open-faced and usually made with prepackaged grated ‘American’ cheddar cheese,’’ Olver writes. “It wasn’t long before school cafeterias and other institutional kitchens followed suit. The usual accompaniment? Tomato soup.’’

Taking note of the trend, Campbell’s and Kraft began joint ads in the 1950s. Velveeta’s suggested, “to make the sandwiches into a main dish, serve them in hot, condensed tomato soup.’’ Company cookbooks emerged with serving suggestions. Campbell’s published “Modern Meal Planning With Soup,’’ wherein an open-faced, broiled cheese sandwich with bacon is partnered with tomato soup. Campbell’s representative John Faulkner calls it “a natural marketing opportunity.’’

Today, Facebook lists more than six pages for grilled cheese and/or tomato soup, some with over 300,000 fans. Medway native Tim Walker founded the Grilled Cheese Invitational in Los Angeles in 2003. The contest is held each year in April. At last week’s competition, 300 contestants and 8,000 spectators gathered to celebrate the “healing power of the combination of grilled cheese and tomato soup.’’ Walker’s favorite when he’s feeling “frilly’’ begins with slices from an olive loaf sandwiched with cave-aged Gruyere and caramelized onions. He describes it as a sandwich that makes you “push away from the table.’’

Lunch counters, of course, have remained loyal to the soup and sandwich pair. At Silvertone in Downtown Crossing, 60 percent of diners order tomato soup and grilled cheese. General manager Mary Palmer grew up on it in Rochester, N.Y. “We had to walk to school, and even though it was only about four blocks away, we’d be frozen by the time we got home.’’ They took off their wet clothes and mittens and sat down to soup and sandwiches.

Boston native Sol Sidell, owner of South Street Diner, has been grilling cheese for 14 years. His version uses American cheese and Italian bread. He offers the combo most of the day, and grilled cheese on its own 24/7. Sidell’s memories are also of the bitter cold, when he’d be offered his mom’s warming lunch of soup and grilled cheese.

“You can be the richest or the poorest person in the world and still enjoy it,’’ says Sidell. “It reminds you of where you came from.’’

(The photo above is from the 1960s, provided by Campbell's Soup Co.)

Food Rules

2010-05-05T09:00:00.000-07:00

Food rule number 39 in Michael Pollan's new manual for the eater summarizes a great deal of what we are trying to accomplish with this blog. He writes, "Eat all the junk food you want as long as you cook it yourself." The idea behind this is that if you are forced to make the cookie from scratch, get out the deep fryer, locate the long forgotten ice cream maker you received as a wedding gift, and then clean up the mess following the whole project, you will embark on the endeavors less often. Putting in the time and effort to make treats for yourself means that you will only indulge occasionally - a perfectly healthy way to live. When you don't feel like cranking out a layer cake, snack on an apple, dried fruits, nuts, or dark chocolate. It's not quite the same, but your body becomes accustomed to the more subtle sweetness found in nature. After a while, you really do want only a mouth full.

Don't Let Lunch Flunk

2010-04-21T09:32:00.000-07:00

An unveiling of one of the many reasons that the blog has been a little neglected in recent weeks... The Boston Globe put together an article which continues to shed light on the disastrous state of our national diet and school lunch programs. The basis of the article is chef Jamie Oliver's notion that every person in the country should have a set of 10 (or so) recipes that they know how to cook. If this were the case, we, as a nation, would be far less dependent on fast-food, processed foods, and non-nutritious food-like substances.

With this idea in mind, The Boston Globe sought out 10 basic recipes from Boston area chefs. Some are vegetarian, some meat, some shellfish, others fish. These are straight-forward recipes, which run the full gamut of ingredients, and on the whole are fairly healthy. Besides supporting this idea wholeheartedly, I have a special vested interest in this group of recipes: I tested them all! Might I say that many are quite delicious. If you are thinking about eating out tonight or ordering a pizza, maybe you should reconsider. Choose a recipe - most won't take you longer than 30 minutes to prepare -- and then pat yourself on the back for a job well done while you savor the fruits of your labor.

Rhubarb Jelly

2010-04-17T17:07:00.000-07:00

My mom's favorite jelly-making technique involves the microwave, a touch of sugar, seasonally appropriate fruit, a large Pyrex measuring bowl, and some plastic wrap. A quick zap and it's ready to be slathered on the nearest piece of freshly baked bread. Since I haven't owned a microwave since college, I had to go old school on my rhubarb. This method isn't quite as fast, but it's pretty darn simple.

Agave nectar is lower on the glycemic index and is therefore better for those who need to monitor their sugar intake. Use a smaller piece of ginger if you prefer a more subtle flavor. Adding the strawberries halfway through the cooking process keeps the flavors bright and improves the otherwise lackluster texture. This is a fairly loose jelly; use 1/4 cup water if you prefer a denser schmear.

Rhubarb Jelly
Makes 3 pints

9 large stalks rhubarb, ends trimmed and roughly chopped
1 piece (1/2 inch) ginger, finely chopped
1/2 cup water
3/4 cup agave nectar
Pinch of salt
1 pint strawberries, hulled and roughly chopped

1. In a flameproof casserole, combine all ingredients except strawberries. Bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. Cook, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes.
2. Stir in the strawberries. Cook, stirring frequently, for an additional 10 minutes, or until strawberries are mostly broken down. (The jelly will be sort of thick, but it will continue to thicken as it cools.)
3. Pour into jars. Store in the refrigerator.

Rice Pudding

2010-04-17T14:56:00.000-07:00

There are few things that my brother loved as a child more than Kozy Shack Rice Pudding and Tapioca Pudding. I wasn't quite so fanatic, but I was known to sneak a spoonful or two from time to time. Ok, so maybe I ate the whole container. Who asked you? Anyway, last week, I was testing recipes. The recipe called for 5 cups cooked rice. I thought to myself, "Hmmm...I wonder how much raw rice that is..." I dumped 5 cups raw rice into the pot -- knowing that it would give me more than I wanted, but certain to have enough. Just between us, I made more rice than New Jersey has landfills. Since I abhor the idea of throwing out perfectly edible food, I got to thinking. Mmmmm....rice pudding. (For the record, I made so much rice that I also made a batch of congee.)

Now, rice pudding at the core isn't exactly healthy. Still, a co-worker presented me with an interesting thought. First, I made it. I know what I put in it. I controlled the process, and I attempted to use somewhat healthier alternatives. Yet, something that I have failed to consider until this point is that the actual process of making food - rice pudding, in this case - is keeping me active and up off the couch. If my fridge were stocked with Kozy Shack (as delicious as it may be), it would be world's easier to curl up under an afghan on the couch and put away the whole container without even the thought of exertion. I do, however, give you permission to lounge on the sofa, enjoying every last grain of your homemade rice pudding.

Rice Pudding
Serves 4

We chose basmati rice because of its lower glycemic index level. We also used date sugar, instead of cane sugar, for the same reason. Skim milk and heavy cream were what dairy we had on hand when the idea came to us. Feel free to use any combination of milk, cream etc that you have in your fridge. So that you are better informed than I was, 1 cup raw rice equals about 2 cups cooked rice!

1/4 cup currants
2 tablespoons brandy
4 cups cooked basmati rice
2 cups skim milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
Pinch salt
1/2 cup date sugar
1 vanilla bean, scraped
Pinch cinnamon

1. In a small bowl, plump currants with brandy for 20 minutes.
2. In a large flameproof casserole, combine all ingredients. Bring liquid to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes. Serve warm or chilled - but, I think it's best right out of the pot.

Gazpacho

2010-04-17T13:02:00.000-07:00

Gazpacho is one of my favorite summer time treats. Savored with a crisp white wine under the heat of a blazing sun -- could there be anything better? Recent research also tells me that it pairs magnificently with a grilled cheese sandwich.

I realize that it is not yet summer (wishful thinking, I guess), even though today in sunny CA it is breezy and in the 70s - the kind of weather from which young romances blossom. The reason that I am posting this recipe unseasonably early is that I am prepping for a class that I will be teaching with Chef Becca Alonzi of Seasonal Elegance Catering. Beginning in June, Becca and I will be molding young minds (and hands) at Celsius and Beyond Summer Camp. Becca is the real mastermind behind the project, and I will be assisting her one day a week on Bread Day! Although gazpacho is not bread per se, it is derived from a tried and true method of using up dried out, crusty bread. So, there you have it. Tuck this one away in your virtual recipe box, and pull it out as soon as the sun begins to warm your neck of the world -- keeping the wine for yourself, of course, not the kids!

Gazpacho
Makes 1 Gallon

(Chop the veggies roughly. There is no need for perfection here since all will end up whirring in the blender.)

4 slices stale bread, chopped
10 tomatoes, cored and chopped
2 green bell peppers, stemmed, seeded and chopped
1 cucumber, chopped
1 red onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1/4 cup vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup water
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 cucumber, peeled and finely chopped (for garnish)

1. In a large bowl, combine all ingredients except for cucumber garnish.
2. Working in small batches, blend the soup in a food processor until smooth.
3. With a food mill or a fine mesh sieve, strain the soup.
4. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Garnish with cucumbers. Serve ice cold.

Great Food Where You Least Expect It

2010-04-14T09:20:00.001-07:00

This week's Boston Globe contains a collection of stories detailing surprise food finds in very unexpected locales. Of course, I was champing at the bit to share my lunch consumed at an Argentinean gas station (see below, also). I've often found myself saying that I only eat McDonald's in foreign countries when I am experiencing palate fatigue from the strange food, and I long for something comforting. I hate to admit it, but McDonald's french fries fit the bill -- apparently Lane Turner feels the same way about the Golden Arches. The German tale takes me back to a high school trip that I took with my friend and her father. After 3 weeks of all the schnitzel, spaetzle and beer I could put away, I had gained 15 pounds! The blurb on Vienna and some of the former Eastern Block reminds me of the woes of vegetarians traveling in meat-centric societies like Europe or Argentina. And, finally, Turner's second entry where he regales the glory of fire-roasted bologna in the forest makes me think of a weekend trip to the Gold Coast of Spain. Two friends and I (spending the semester abroad) had splurged and rented a room at a 5-star hotel. Having blown our entire budget on lodging, we trudged to grocery store to dig up some cheap eats. We came back with American cheese, a loaf of bread, and a handle of Polish vodka - the best cheese sandwich I ever ate!

High-taste fuel
By Karoline Boehm Goodnick, Globe Correspondent | April 14, 2010

SAN JUAN, Argentina — We had hired a driver for the day, as was our custom. The mountain roads twist and turn and we were there to taste wine. Other than wineries, San Juan is a sleepy town in the northwest, not far from the Chilean border. Argentines had told us that nothing much happens here. We went anyway. The air conditioning inside the car was a welcome reprieve from the sweltering heat. Our driver, despite his Mercedes, was unkempt with wavy, wild hair and a worn red T-shirt. We asked him to take us somewhere for a good lunch. He whipped left and took off without a word.

He pulled into a YPF (Fiscal Petroleum Fields) service station. Maybe he needed to fill up? Then he motioned to the roadside restaurant beside the station.

Inside it was refreshingly icebox cold. Argentines have a national obsession with super chilled beer. We brushed past racks offering regional wines and sought out the tap. In this scorching heat, nothing less than a pitcher of clean, light Quilmes, the local brew, could quench our thirst. At the counter, we flipped through the plastic menu book. We were surprised to see so many Mexican dishes and even though we were curious about the burritos, we weren’t curious enough to order them. We opted instead for the local specialties and headed for a table.

A few minutes later, a waitress brought napkins and flatware. We sipped the delicious beer. Then she brought a basket of bread with aioli and marinated garlic, then a salad, piled with fire-engine-red tomatoes and crisp iceberg, dressed with oil and vinegar.

Then our entrees: milanesas de pollo, a cousin of chicken schnitzel and an Argentine specialty. This version came with a head of roasted garlic and peach chutney. The french fries were standard and good, accompanied by hash browns. There was also a sunny-side up egg, the yolk soft and runny, which made a dipping sauce for both fries and chicken.

We peeked through the blinds into the glaring sun and the whirling dust. Surrounded by absolute nothingness in a very unremarkable gas station, we were dining well.

Beef Stew to Baked Ziti

2010-04-07T09:33:00.000-07:00

Braised beef raises profile of stew and baked ziti
By Karoline Boehm Goodnick, Globe Correspondent | April 7, 2010

All kinds of complex braised beef dishes have crept into the vast American recipe box. Sometimes the occasion calls for simplicity. This retro stew starts with beef chuck, a large, inexpensive cut with plenty of marbling, which softens by long, slow cooking. Brown pieces of the beef, stir in celery, onions, and tomato paste, and simmer gently. Instead of adding potatoes to the pot, roast red potatoes separately so you have a crisp texture to accompany the dish. Set aside some of the stew and finish the rest with a sprinkling of green peas.

The unadorned stew lends itself to the beginnings of a hearty Italian meat sauce. Canned tomatoes are the foundation of this ragu. Add body with tomato paste (you’ll have some left over from the stew). While the sauce bubbles, cook a pot of ziti. Layer the sauce and pasta with creamy ricotta and a mozzarella/Parmesan combo, which bakes into a golden crunchy crust. The transformation turns an American standard into a casserole any nonna would be proud to serve.

Beef stew with roast potatoes
Serves 4 with leftovers

POTATOES

4 red potatoes, each cut into 8 wedges
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Have on hand a rimmed baking sheet.

2. In a large bowl, toss the potatoes, rosemary, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Tip the potatoes out onto the sheet.

3. Roast them for 45 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.

BEEF

4 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1-inch pieces
1/4 cup flour
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoon vegetable oil
6 stalks celery, chopped
1 onion, chopped
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 3/4 cups water
1 cup frozen peas

1. In a large bowl, toss the beef, flour, salt, and pepper.

2. In a large flameproof casserole, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over high heat. Working in small batches, brown several pieces of the beef for 3 minutes on a side. Transfer to a plate. Brown the remaining beef the same way. Remove all the meat from the pan.

3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. When it is hot, add the celery and onion. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables soften.

4. Stir in the tomato paste. Add water and return the beef to the pan. Bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and cover the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour and 15 minutes or until the meat is tender when pierced with a fork. (Set aside 2 cups of the meat and sauce for baked ziti).

5. Stir the peas in the remaining mixture in the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Serve with the potatoes.

Baked ziti
April 7, 2010

Serves 4

Vegetable oil (for the dish)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup tomato paste
1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes
3/4 cup water
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 cups leftover beef stew, meat cut into shreds
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 pound dried ziti
1 pound fresh ricotta
4 ounces shredded mozzarella
1/2 cup grated Parmesan

1. Set the oven at 375 degrees. Lightly oil a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.

2. In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over high heat. Add onion and garlic. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until the onion softens. Stir in the tomato paste.

3. Add the tomatoes, water, oregano, and beef stew. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper.

4. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the ziti and cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until pasta is tender but still has some bite. Drain the pasta into a colander.

5. Pour about 1/3 of the tomato sauce into the baking dish. Add 1/2 the pasta, dot with 1/2 the ricotta and 1/3 of the mozzarella.

6. Add 1/3 of the sauce, the remaining pasta, the remaining ricotta and 1/3 of the mozzarella.

7. Add the remaining sauce, the remaining mozzarella, and the Parmesan.

8. Bake for 30 minutes or until the cheese is brown and the mixture is bubbling at the edges. Let the dish settle for 5 minutes before serving.

Non-nutritive Cereal Varnish

2010-04-01T17:00:00.000-07:00

Here's the thing about unprocessed foods. They mold...or rot...or ferment (in a bad way). I'm currently in the process of pouring my moldy goat milk yogurt down the drain since I've been too busy to keep my kitchen properly stocked and rotated. Aaargh!
Signed,
Annoyed in San Francisco

(P.S. Props to anyone who gets the non-nutritive cereal varnish reference.)

Lasagna - The Old School Way

2010-03-31T10:09:00.000-07:00

Yes, I understand that the above photo is more like spaghetti than lasagne, but we made them on the same day. And, while the lasagne looked (and tasted, I might add) fantastic, this photo won out. Surely, you can see why.

This dish is a labor of love. Feel free to incorporate only the "scratch" parts that interest you. For example, if you are much too tired to make pasta, use store-bought, but find the time to make the sauce. You get the idea.

The pasta recipe below will make about twice as much as you will need for this dish. You can either cut the recipe in half, or reserve the extra for making ravioli or spaghetti. It's probably better to go for the extra dough since you are already in the process of making pasta. Dry the noodles by hanging them over a rod, and then store in the freezer.

When you assemble the lasagne, don't fret too much about the layering. If I have failed to clearly articulate the idea, just be sure to end with a nice coating of sauce topped with a hearty dose of cheese - that's really all that matters!

Tomato Sauce

1 tablespoon olive oil
5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
15 plum tomatoes, cored, halved, and squeezed free of seeds
Bouquet garni - sprig of thyme, sprig fresh oregano, 1 dried bay leaf (tied with twine)
1 cup red wine
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 bunch basil, finely chopped

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. In a large flameproof casserole, heat olive oil over high heat. Add onion and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes or until the onions start to become tender.
2. Add red pepper flakes, toasting for 1 minute to release the aromas.
3. Add tomatoes, bouquet garni, wine, and black pepper. Bring liquid to a boil.
4. Place the casserole in the oven, and cook for 45 minutes.
5. Stir, breaking up any large chunks. Season with salt and pepper. Remove and discard bouquet garni. Stir in basil.

Roasted Eggplant

2 medium eggplants
Olive oil, for drizzling
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. Make sure the oven is still set at 400 degrees. Remove the top and bottom of each eggplant; discard. Cut both into 1/2 inch slices.
2. Place a wire cooling rack on a baking sheet. Lay out the slices of eggplant (it's ok if they overlap slightly). Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
3. Bake for 25 minutes or until tender.

Ricotta

6 1/4 cup skim milk
1 cup plain goat's milk yogurt (ok to sub cow's milk)
1 3/4 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup parmesan cheese

1. In a large pot, slowly bring milk, yogurt, cream, vinegar, and salt to a boil. Boil lightly for 2 minutes or until you can see visible curds forming.
2. Spoon the curds into a fine mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth. Pour the remaining liquid over the curds. Wrap the cheesecloth around the ricotta and squeeze to drain. Place a weighted object over the top and leave to drain for 30 minutes.
3. Stir in oregano, egg, and parmesan.

Whole Wheat Pasta

3 cups whole wheat pasta
1 cup all purpose flour
4 eggs
3/4 cup water
2 tablespoons olive oil
Pinch salt
Flour, for kneading

1. In a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine all of the ingredients. Mix on medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes or until the dough forms a ball.
2. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead for a minute or 2, or until the surface of the dough is smooth. Cover with plastic, and let it rest 10 minutes.
3. Using a pasta roller or a rolling pin, cut the dough into sections and roll to a paper thin consistency. (On our machine, this was #5, with 7 being the thinnest.) Cut the rolled dough into 12 pieces that are 3 inches by 9 inches. As you complete them, lay the pieces on a plate with waxed paper or parchment between each layer.

Lasagne assembly

Olive oil, for greasing
2 cups mozzarella
1/4 cup parmesan cheese

1. Set the oven to 350. Grease a 9x9 baking pan.
2. Begin by spooning 1/5 of the tomato sauce into the pan, spreading it to the edges. Top the sauce with three pieces of pasta, laid side by side to form a complete layer. Sprinkle 1/4 of the ricotta and some mozzarella on top of the pasta. Lay approximately 5 slices of eggplant across the cheese. Begin again with the sauce, and repeat until the pan is full. You should have 5 layers of sauce, 4 layers of pasta, 4 layers of ricotta, and 3 layers of eggplant. You will not use a fourth layer of eggplant, instead ending with sauce and the remaining mozzarella. Sprinkle the parmesan over the top.
3. Bake for 40 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbling and the cheese is golden and crunchy.
4. Cool 5 minutes before slicing.

Easter Bread

2010-03-31T08:54:00.000-07:00

Eggy loaf for the holiday
By Karoline Boehm Goodnick, Globe Correspondent | March 31, 2010

An important symbol of the end of Lent and the celebration of the resurrection, this rich, yeasted bread has as many versions as there are denominations of Christianity. In Austria and Germany, bakers produce wreaths known as osterkranz. Italians bake at least five variations, including the Sicilian centerpiece shaped like a crown of thorns; recipes differ with the addition of pine nuts, citrus zest, and candied fruits. Many cultures place dyed eggs in the bread, representing new life and spring’s fertile optimism. In Argentina, Roman Catholics favor rosca, a ring-shaped loaf topped with pastry cream and chocolate.

Enlist the children to dye the eggs. Room temperature eggs bleed less, preventing unsightly streaks on the finished loaf. A simple twist resembles traditional braids, yet can be accomplished by a novice. If twisting seems too difficult, try a ring, round loaf, or two strands intersected as a cross.

Makes 1 loaf

Butter (for the pan)
1/2 cup dried fruit, chopped
1/4 cup brandy
2 teaspoons yeast
1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 cup lukewarm water
2 tablespoons butter, softened
2 tablespoons milk, heated to warm
2 eggs
2 cups flour
Pinch of salt
1/4 teaspoon anise seed
Flour (for sprinkling)
Oil (for the bowl)
3 dyed hard-cooked eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon water (for egg wash)

1. Set the oven at 325 degrees. Butter a rimmed baking sheet.

2. In a small pan, combine the dried fruit and brandy. Bring to a boil; set aside.

3. In a small bowl, whisk the yeast, 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar, and warm water. Set aside for 5 minutes.

4. In a mixer with a dough hook, mix butter, milk, and 1 of the eggs. Add the yeast mixture, and blend. Add 1 1/2 cups flour, the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar, salt, and anise seed. Mix on low speed for 2 minutes.

5. Add the remaining 1/2 cup flour and dried fruit mixture. Mix on low speed for 2 to 3 minutes, or until dough begins to form a ball.

6. Transfer to a lightly floured surface. Knead for 1 minute, or until dough is smooth.

7. Oil a bowl. Add the dough, cover, and set in a warm place to rise for 1 hour, or until doubled in bulk.

8. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface. Divide the dough into 2 pieces. Roll each piece into a 12-inch strand. Lay the strands side by side, and twist together, securing both ends.

9. Place the twisted dough on the baking sheet. Carefully tuck the dyed eggs into the crevice between the strands. Cover with a clean towel. Set in a warm place, and let the dough rise for 45 minutes, or until doubled in size.

10. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining egg and 1 teaspoon water. Gently brush the risen loaf with the egg wash.

11. Bake the bread for 30 minutes, rotating from front to back after 15 minutes, or until crust is a deep golden brown.

12. Transfer the loaf to a wire rack. Cool for 15 minutes.

GLAZE

1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the confectioners’ sugar and lemon juice.

2. Place the bread and the rack on a baking sheet.

3. Using a spoon, drizzle the glaze over the cooled loaf. Leave it to set.

Opening Day!

2010-03-31T08:15:00.000-07:00

Check out some fun ways to bring the ballpark to your living room couch in today's Boston Globe! I highly recommend the soft pretzel recipe!

Food For Thought...or Health

2010-03-30T00:06:00.000-07:00

Check out this quick slideshow from Glamour...a great list of foods you should try and eat more of!

Down With Sugar

2010-03-27T09:57:00.000-07:00

I love sweet stuff, and you probably do, too. But, the fact of the matter is that as Americans, we consume way too much sugar. Recently, high fructose corn syrup (the sweetener found in sodas, cookies, candies, and savory items that you wouldn't expect) has become the scapegoat for nutritionists, food writers, and bloggers - myself included. A study done on rats "proves" that long term abuse of HFCS is bad for the body, causing increased abdominal weight and more triglycerides in the blood stream. This is all probably true. However, similar effects can be said to come from long term consumption of cane sugar and other natural sweeteners. As much as we all love to rail on HFCS, the truth is we just need to eat less sugar. Period.

Fun With Food

2010-03-26T21:53:00.000-07:00

A few shots from the last day of my birthday celebration...

*Waiting in line at Swan Oyster Depot*

*Some of the offerings on display in the window*

*Mikey showing off some west coast oysters*

*Combination Louie Salad*

*Sake tasting at Takara in Berkeley*

*One of my favorite reasons to live in CA - outside Takara*

Barbecue Sauce

2010-03-25T13:41:00.001-07:00

This one's been on the to-do list for far too long. A by product of Quigs' birthday party prep back in February, this recipe requires many hours on the stove but is well worth the effort!

1 large onion, chopped
2 large ancho chiles, stems removed
7 cloves garlic, crushed
3 whole cloves
9 allspice berries
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
1 1/2 cups vinegar(we used cider)
1/4 cup molasses
1/4 cup honey
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
1/2 cup date sugar
Salt, to taste
10 medium tomatoes, chopped

1. In a large, flameproof casserole, combine everything except for tomatoes. Bring liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook, stirring often, until the liquid is a thick syrup with large bubbles.
2. Add tomatoes. Cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook, covered, for 10 minutes.
3. Using a potato masher, crush tomatoes. Reduce heat to low, and cook, stirring often, for 2 hours or until very thick and similar to the consistency of ketchup.
4. In a blender, puree until smooth. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt if you like.

Marcia's Clam Pizza

2010-03-24T10:00:00.000-07:00

On a recent visit, my mom and I worked on a recipe that she has perfected down to an art form -- clam pizza. This version is white, but you could add tomatoes if you were so inclined. Use a jar of clams or shuck your own. For the cheese topping, we used a blend of mozz, parm, reggiano, and provolone from Lucca Ravioli Co. St. Louisians have their own similar version called Provel. Any flavorful white blend will do. Make your own dough or use a supermarket version.

The key is in the heat of oven. Set the temperature as high as it will go. Don't be shy - trust me. It also helps if you have a pizza stone or cast iron pan. For her method, the pizza is assembled on a metal pizza screen. The stone or cast iron stays in the oven, getting good and raging hot. Once the pizza is fully assembled, slide the whole thing, screen and all onto the stone. After baking, remove the entire apparatus. The stone or cast iron will retain heat and keep your pie warm while you devour the first few slices.

Serves 2-4

9.5 ounces clams, drained
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
Flour, for rolling
1 pound pizza dough (we used this whole wheat recipe)
Salt and pepper, to taste
8 ounces "pizza" cheese
Olive oil, for drizzling

1. In a small bowl, combine the clams, dried oregano, garlic, and olive oil. Marinate for 20 minutes. (You can do this while the pizza dough is rising if you make your own.)
2. Set the oven at 550 degrees (or as high as your oven will go). Place your stone or cast iron pan in the oven on the bottom shelf.
3. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pizza dough to a circle that is 1/2 inch larger than the metal pizza screen.
4. Transfer the dough to the screen. Gently roll the edges, crimping and sealing as you go, forming the outer crust.
5. Sprinkle the clam mixture over the pizza. Season with salt and pepper. Top the pizza with cheese. Drizzle with olive oil for extra browning.
6. With the pizza on the metal screen, set the whole thing on top of the stone that has been pre-heated in the oven. Bake for 7-10 minutes or until the cheese is brown and bubbling. Remove both pans from the oven and allow to cool 5 minutes before serving.

Baking for Passover

2010-03-23T23:05:00.000-07:00

No, I'm not Jewish - despite the fact that the Ben Goodnick who pops up in a Google search is a rabbi -- but I am intrigued by Kosher dietary laws, and I do enjoy a good flourless chocolate cake. What follows are two recipes from the March 24th edition of the Boston Globe. The first is dense and moist -- sinful and dark. The second is light and nutty -- perhaps fleeting and ethereal. Both are delicious, and both are suitable for either Passover or satisfying the sweet tooth of gluten-free friends!

For the Seder, it’s icing on the cake

Many Passover hosts have spent years searching for the perfect flourless chocolate cake. When the holiday begins next Monday night with the first Seder, some good bakers will have found their ultimate holiday confection. If not, keep reading.

Unlike traditional flourless chocolate cakes, which are souffle-like and delicate, this cake is dense and moist. It’s so rich that a sliver will suffice. Serve it at room temperature so the glaze and the interior meld into one. This is actually a classic French torte and it relies heavily on butter. If you cannot serve a cake made with dairy products for dietary reasons, substitute margarine for butter, tablespoon for tablespoon, and omit the salt.

The technique is similar to making a giant brownie. You need only a bowl and a large whisk, and a double boiler (or heatproof bowl set over a saucepan). Bake the cake in a water bath to slowly bring the eggs up to temperature. Rotating and removing the roasting pan from the oven can be tricky procedure. Take your time and make sure it’s secure in your hands. Once the cake has been cooled and inverted onto a wire rack, you can glaze it.

The temperature of the glaze should not be hot to the touch nor should it be stiff. Cool glaze will act more like an icing. Too warm and it will run quickly off the sides of the cake. But if this happens, don’t worry. Scrape the glaze back into a bowl, cool for a few minutes more, and pour again. Chill the finished cake in the refrigerator only until the glaze sets. Then, immediately remove it from the rack and transfer to a platter. Watch the crowd gather round.

Flourless Chocolate Cake

Makes one 9-inch cake

CAKE

Butter (for the pan)
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped or 1 cup bittersweet chocolate chips
1 1/4 cups (2 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut up
3/4 cup brewed strong coffee
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
5 eggs plus 2 extra yolks
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted onto waxed paper
Pinch of salt

1. Set the oven at 325 degrees. Lightly butter a 9-inch layer cake pan, line the bottom with a circle of parchment paper cut to fit in, and butter the paper. Have on hand a roasting pan.

2. In the top of a double boiler over hot but not boiling water, melt the chocolate and butter, stirring until smooth. Stir in the coffee and vanilla. Remove the top of the double boiler and wipe the bottom.

3. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, extra yolks, and sugar. Slowly whisk in the chocolate mixture. Whisk in cocoa powder and salt.

4. Transfer the batter to the cake pan. Set the cake pan in the roasting pan. Place the roasting pan in the oven. Pour enough warm tap water into the roasting pan to come halfway up the outside of the cake pan.

5. Bake the cake for 45 minutes, rotating from front to back halfway through baking, or until the cake is set. Do not let it cook until the top is hard or the cake may dry out.

6. Remove the cake pan from the water bath and leave to cool; refrigerate overnight.

GLAZE

9 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped or 1 1/2 cups bittersweet chocolate chips
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut up

1. Run a knife around the edge of the cake to loosen it from the pan. Carefully place the pan in a shallow bowl of hot water (hold the pan so the cake doesn’t get wet). Warm the cake for 2 minutes. Wipe the bottom of the pan. Invert it onto a wire rack. Lift off and discard the parchment paper. If the cake does not release, place the pan in the water for another minute and repeat.

2. Set the cake and the wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet. Refrigerate while you prepare the glaze.

3. In the top of a double boiler, melt the chocolate and butter, stirring until smooth. Remove the top of the double boiler and wipe the bottom. Cool the glaze for 5 minutes.

4. Pour the glaze over the cake. With an offset or rubber spatula, smooth any excess glaze over the cake.

5. Refrigerate for 10 minutes or until the glaze sets. Using a metal spatula, loosen the edges of the cake from the wire rack. Transfer to a serving platter. Use a knife dipped in hot water and dried to cut even slices.

Go to the Globe site to see the full recipe for the Italian Chocolate-Almond Torte. (Pictured below.)

A Really Good Day

2010-03-22T21:54:00.000-07:00

First, I would like to extend my congratulations to my editor, Sheryl Julian, and the other contributors to the Boston Globe's Food Section. The section was selected as one of three nominees for the best food section in the country by the James Beard Foundation! Hip Hip Hooray! Sheryl is one of the hardest working editors in the business, and it has been an absolute thrill and a pleasure to have submitted so many pieces/photos to her for the past four years. This is quite the honor -- and one that she truly deserves!

Secondly, I will take a brief moment to toot my own horn...here goes...toot...toot...TOOT! TOOT! As you may have seen, I submitted three recipes to Foodista's recipe contest -- homemade ketchup, farro with asparagus and mushrooms, and vegan pumpkin bundt cake. The online forum is assembling a cookbook using selected recipes submitted by bloggers. All three of my recipes were chosen as finalists! The winners will be announced at the end of the summer, but until then, you can continue to visit the site and vote or leave positive comments on the recipe. (Click on the link on the right sidebar to go directly to the site.) A giant thank you to those of you who have already done so! Fingers crossed!

Adobo Pork & Congee

2010-03-17T08:42:00.000-07:00

Stretch the spice with two Asian classics
From the Boston Globe

Filipino food gets lost among the choices of Southeast Asian cuisines. An approachable introduction to the islands’ food is the stew called adobo, which can be made with a variety of meats. A long cooking period lets the piquant nature of vinegar, soy sauce, and peppers meld flawlessly with the tender braised meat. It’s as easy as cooking gets: All the ingredients go into one pot, and essentially all you have to do is skim the surface often to remove excess fat.

Adobo pork makes a satisfying supper. Use small pieces of pork butt. Add a jalapeno and peppercorns (the dish should be a little spicy), but remove the peppercorns before serving. The dish simmers for more than an hour, until the pork is quite tender; then you have to let the cooking liquid bubble over high heat until it reduces and intensifies. Pair the dish with long-grain white rice. For Monday’s dinner, save some of the pork and rice for congee.

Congee, or rice porridge, is traditionally served as breakfast in China. Think of it as Asian risotto, which can serve as a main dish for supper. The simple flavors of the soup provide a blank canvas on which the punchy adobo shines. Once you have leftover adobo and rice, the dish is quick to make. Saute ginger, scallions, and garlic in a pan, pour in chicken stock, water, and the leftovers from Sunday. Simmer briefly, garnish with a few more scallions and a drop of dark sesame oil. Two classics blend together to create a recipe that you will revisit again and again.

Adobo pork
Serves 4 with leftovers

RICE

3 cups long-grain white rice
4 1/2 cups water

1. In a fine mesh sieve, rinse rice well under cold running water.

2. In a large pot with a tight-fitting lid, combine the rice and water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to medium, cover, and cook for 10 minutes.

3. Remove the rice from the heat and let it sit, covered, for 5 minutes. (Set aside 4 cups cooked rice for the congee.)

PORK

4 pounds boneless pork butt, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 1/2 cups cider vinegar
1/2 cup soy sauce
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
3 cloves garlic
1 jalapeno or other chili pepper, halved
Salt, to taste
2 scallions, thinly sliced

1. In a large flameproof casserole, combine pork, vinegar, soy sauce, peppercorns, bay leaf, garlic, and jalapeno. Stir well.

2. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to medium-low, and cover the pot.

3. Simmer for 45 minutes, occasionally skimming fat from the surface.

4. Remove the lid and continue cooking over medium heat for 30 minutes more or until the pork is extremely tender. (Total cooking time is 1 hour and 15 minutes.)

5. With a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a bowl; set aside. Skim the fat from the cooking juices. Bring liquid to a boil and let it bubble steadily until it reduces by half.

6. Place the pork in the pan. Continue cooking for 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add salt, if you like.

7. Remove and discard the bay leaf, jalapeno, and peppercorns. (Set aside 1 1/2 cups pork and cooking juices for the congee.)

8. Spoon the remaining pork mixture over the rice. Garnish with scallions.

Congee (rice porridge)
Serves 4

1 teaspoon vegetable oil
1 piece (1 inch) fresh ginger, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
5 scallions, thinly sliced
1 1/2 cups adobo pork and cooking juices
1 quart chicken stock
2 cups water
4 cups cooked rice
1/4 cup soy sauce
Salt and pepper, to taste
Sesame oil (for sprinkling)

1. In a large flameproof casserole, heat the oil over high heat. Add ginger, garlic, and half the scallions. Cook, stirring often, for 3 minutes.

2. Add the pork mixture, chicken stock, water, cooked rice, and soy sauce. Bring the liquid to a boil, lower the heat to medium, and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper, if you like.

3. Ladle into bowls. Garnish each serving with a few drops of sesame oil and the remaining scallions.

Celebrating My 30th

2010-03-12T09:42:00.000-08:00

Our posts have not been as regular as we like them to be, but that's because we have been busy celebrating. If one is forced to turn 30, I stand firmly on the grounds that a month long celebration is indeed in order. That being said, we have been traveling around and filling our tummies. We have saved up our "processed" meals for this time, and I thought I would give you an idea of how we have been splurging. The following photos document some of our culinary delights. We'll have to go on a cleanse once it's all over and done with, but for now, I'm just enjoying the moments!

*Tacos at La Taqueria on Mission St.*

*The cellar at Mt. Eden Vineyards - high up in the Santa Cruz Mountains*

*Enjoying the wines at Mt. Eden with some Vosges chocolate from Chicago!*

*Dinner at The Plumed Horse in Saratoga*

*Showing off our purchase at Ridge Montebello*

*Riding horses and drinking wine at Cooper-Garrod*

Fighting Childhood Obesity - Chili Mac & Quesadillas

2010-03-11T11:23:00.000-08:00

The Boston Globe ran a story yesterday dedicated to the efforts being made to fight childhood obesity and better nourish our children. (Click on the previous link to read the full story and get tips on how to improve your family's health.) I contributed to the article by styling Sheryl's Sweet Potato Quesadillas (a tasty gem of a simple recipe) and creating/ styling the Chili Mac recipe. Both dishes contain lean proteins and an addition of more veggies than are found in traditional versions.

Sweet potato and turkey quesadillas with cheddar
March 10, 2010
Serves 4

2 large sweet potatoes
8 large flour tortillas
2 cups shredded cheddar
4 slices cooked turkey breast, cut into strips
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. Set the oven at 425 degrees. Pierce the sweet potatoes 6 or 8 times with a fork. Set them in a roasting pan and bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until they are tender when pierced with a skewer. Remove the potatoes from the oven; leave the oven on.
2. Let the potatoes sit until they are cool enough to handle. Halve them lengthwise and scoop the flesh into a bowl. Mash it with a fork.
3. On 2 large baking sheets, arrange 4 of the tortillas so they are not touching. Heat them in the oven for 3 minutes or until they are warm but still pliable; leave the oven on.
4. Line the tortillas up on the counter. Spread them with a thin layer of mashed potatoes, add a sprinkle of cheese, some turkey, salt, and pepper. Cover each round with another tortilla to make a sandwich. Return the tortillas to the hot oven.
5. Bake the quesadillas for 5 to 8 minutes more or until the top round is crisp and the cheese is melting at the edges. Transfer to a cutting board and cut the rounds into quarters.
6. Set 4 quarters on each of 4 plates.
Sheryl Julian

Chili mac
March 10, 2010
Serves 4

Old-fashioned versions of this classic rely on ground beef, ready-made tomato sauce, and regular pasta, and typically do not contain other vegetables. This updated recipe uses ground turkey instead of beef. Choose a mixture of white and dark meat, or use only ground breast meat for the leanest option. Bell pepper, celery, and zucchini provide a healthy dose of veggies; young diners may not even notice them in the dish. Use whole-wheat macaroni, but let the kids choose the shape. Elbows, shells, and even bow ties will work with this presentation. Top each bowl with a few pieces of avocado, giving the dish a fresh look and healthy fats.

1 teaspoon olive oil
1 pound ground turkey (mixture of white and dark meat)
1 small onion, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
Salt and black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons chili powder
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 cup water
1 can (28 ounces) diced tomatoes
1 can (15 ounces) kidney beans, with their liquid
2 small zucchini, chopped
1/2 pound whole-wheat macaroni or other small pasta
1 avocado, peeled and chopped

1. In a large flameproof casserole, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Brown the turkey, breaking it up with a spoon, for 5 minutes or until it begins to brown.
2. Add the onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic, salt, and black pepper. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until the vegetables begin to soften.
3. Add the chili powder, oregano, and cumin. Stir for 1 minute.
4. Add the water and tomatoes. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 10 minutes.
5. Stir in the kidney beans and zucchini. Return liquid to a boil. Lower the heat, and simmer for 30 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add salt and black pepper, if you like.
6. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the macaroni or other pasta. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 7 minutes or until pasta is tender but still has some bite. Drain the pasta into a colander; shake it but do not rinse.
7. Divide the noodles among 4 deep bowls. Top with chili and garnish with avocado.

Baked Trout with Lemon and Paprika

2010-03-03T10:22:00.000-08:00

Also in today's Globe!

Serves 4

Finding time to cook a fancy meal for company sometimes seems as likely as a celebrity chef showing up to fill in. If you can find boned and butterflied whole trout, which cook in a very short time, they make a beautiful presentation. Fill the cavities with lemon, thyme, and garlic and bake the fish inside foil packets to keep the flesh moist during baking. Serve with steamed potatoes sprinkled with parsley and black pepper.

1 teaspoon olive oil
4 whole boned trout, butterflied
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 teaspoon paprika
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 lemon, thinly sliced
8 sprigs fresh thyme
1/4 cup white wine

1. Have on hand a rimmed baking sheet. Set the oven at 350 degrees.

2. Cut 4 sheets of foil (each 16 inches long); line them up on the counter. Brush each piece of foil with olive oil. On the center of the foil, place 1 whole trout, skin side up; season with salt and pepper. Flip the fish over and season the flesh side with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with paprika.

3. Divide garlic and lemon slices among the fish. Top with thyme, dividing evenly. Sprinkle white wine over each. Fold one fillet over the other, closing up the trout.

4. Fold the foil up and around each fish, and make a seal on top. Set the packets on the baking sheet.

5. Bake for 10 minutes or until the fish is firm and opaque.

To My Readers:

2010-03-03T09:54:00.000-08:00

You are a small but loyal crew. I must apologize for my absence. With 30 looming down on me, I've been busy making all the preparations to celebrate the fateful day -- and not by having a solitary pity party! In addition to the chaos of the celebrations of my birth and fortunate continued existence, I have been working like a dog, scrapping together recipes and photos for the Boston Globe (and 1 or 2 other publications that I will let you know about later). The really fantastic thing about the Globe is that they pay me. So, you will understand that is why I sometimes make my world revolve around the demands of said paying gig.

Fear not, though, my friends, unprocessed is still in full swing. A giant batch of hoagies sits on my counter next to an even larger bag of gaufrettes that Ben made at work. The remaining ingredients for an unprocessed birthday party sit in canvas sacks, ready to make their arrival into this world. We'll be sure to post a few new recipes that came about as a result of this soiree. And, if you happen to be in the area, stop by and give an early Happy Birthday salute to me and my dear friend, Suzan. We'll be commemorating the big 3-0 all night long!

Below is a post from today's Boston Globe Short Orders section. You may have seen me touting the merits of Blue Grass Soy Sauce before, but this is the "professional" version.

Microbrewed, small batch, and single barrel are not terms usually associated with the production of soy sauce. But Matt Jamie, president of Bourbon Barrel Foods, is doing just that. Made with non-GMO soybeans and spring water, Blue Grass Soy Sauce ($5.99 for 5 ounces) is one of Kentucky’s finest. The condiment is fermented and aged in bourbon barrels; each label states the batch and bottle number, handwritten by Jamie’s father. The subtle smokiness, derived from its time in oak, perks up a simple stir-fry or rounds out a sharp balsamic vinaigrette. From the land of whiskey and thoroughbreds comes an artisan elixir deserving of space on your shelf. Available at Don Otto’s (formerly Lionette’s), 577 Tremont St., Boston, 617-778-0360; City Feed and Supply, 672 Centre St., 617-524-1799, and 66A Boylston St., 617-524-1657, both in Jamaica Plain; or from www.bluegrasssoysauce.com.

Enough with the Nut Butters, Already!

2010-02-24T09:05:00.001-08:00

I realize that at this point, you must think that my infatuation with all things nutty and ground in the food processor borders on serious insanity. Well, I can assure you that I am certifiably crazy, but it has nothing to do with schmears intended for toast.

That being said, our latest venture into the nut butter world was cashew. Ben is interested in trying out one of Martha Stewart's recipes that calls for cashew butter. I must admit that out of the three that we have tried thus far, cashew butter is my least favorite, although I can't clearly articulate why. Perhaps there is a higher starch content, which in the end yields something slightly more difficult to spread than the good old Peter Pan standby. While this may not sound like a ringing endorsement, I do suggest you try it. Variety, after all, is the spice of life. Who knows? Maybe I will even venture into the world of Brazil nut butter. Does that even sound good?

4 cups raw, unsalted cashews
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 cup oil
4-6 tablespoons water

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. On a rimmed baking sheet, spread the cashews. Roast for 20 minutes, or until nuts begin to brown and release their oils.
2. In a food processor, grind the nuts with the salt, scraping down the sides often.
3. With the machine running, pour in oil and water, again scraping the sides as necessary. If the butter seems too stiff, feel free to add more water or oil.
4. When the cashew butter is smooth and homogeneous, transfer to an air-tight container. Store in the refrigerator.

Project Foodie

2010-02-23T21:30:00.001-08:00

My mother's house - much like my own postage stamp in the Mission - was filled with stacks and binders of decades worth of food magazines and newspaper clippings. Hers were namely Gourment; my secret hoarding fetish includes mostly Saveur. I remember the sadness in her eyes when the basement flooded and she was forced to throw away the moldy back issues that had brought her so many gastronomic pleasures. Eventually, I would grow overwhelmed by their presence -- so many layers of precious information, but without the Dewey Decimal system or a computer driven search engine, how the hell does one find something even remotely specific?

Enter Foodie Pam of Project Foodie, a delightful personality that I had the pleasure of dining with at Cav Wine Bar and Kitchen this evening. Pam is the founder of this ingenius site that searches only reputable food publications and provides the user with links to recipes that will surely not result in disaster. No longer is it necessary to while away the hours in fruitless search of an elusive dish (although, I admit that there is nothing that I would like more). Nor are you forced to place your evening meal in the untrustworthy hands of less-than-average-blogger-Joe. Registration ensures that you can return to your favorite recipes again and again -- carefully bookmarked in your very own e-recipe box, ensuring that your prized instructions won't be set aflame on a misdirected burner or covered in Bordelaise sauce.

Foodista!

2010-02-18T18:55:00.000-08:00

I stumbled upon a contest on Foodista. They are looking for recipes and photos from food blogs to be chosen for an upcoming book. So far, I entered my Vegan Pumpkin Bundt Cake and Kayo's Homemade Ketchup (to be fair, it is mostly Ben's ketchup, but we are a team!). You can vote for me by clicking on the Foodista links on the side. There is one link for each recipe entered. Fingers crossed!

Practice Makes Perfect

2010-02-18T15:05:00.000-08:00

Just playing around...
Above - Chickpea ragout with couscous
Below - Roasted shallots (pre-roasting, of course)
(I'll post links to both of these recs when they become available.)

Good Thing I am Not a Junkie

2010-02-17T16:51:00.000-08:00

I have bad veins - terrible, hidden, spindly little things. Unfortunately for me, I have to give blood regularly, which usually means a few hundred feeble attempts to find a vein, sticking me all the while and causing major bruising and discomfort. Blech! While the whole affair is rather miserable, it is typically quick and usually brings good results.

As I have mentioned previously, I have PCOS, a condition which renders my ticker vulnerable to attack and the rest of my poor body highly susceptible to diabetes. So, we have to keep an eye on things. This last series of tests included a check of my Hemoglobin A1C. What this number reveals is an average blood glucose level over the prior 6-8 weeks. Healthy patients should expect this number to be under 7. (Diabetics typically see a level higher than 8.) Mine was 5.4! Yay! It seems that my regular exercise and healthy diet (aided by my intake of the prescription drug Metformin) are keeping my blood sugar levels stable.

On to the fun stuff - cholesterol! Anyone over the age of 45 is probably familiar with the complicated lingo related to blood lipid levels. In my most basic layman's terms, cholesterol levels are measured 3 ways, total, LDL, and HDL. Total cholesterol is a combination of the LDL and HDL.

LDL is bad cholesterol - found in animal fats like red meat, lard, butter, egg yolks, dairy, etc. This is the "killer" cholesterol that clogs arteries and stops your heart. This number should be less than 130; mine was 88. Yay, again!

HDL is good cholesterol. How can it be good? HDLs actually help to rid your arteries of lipids (fats) and lower the LDLs. HDLs are found in vegetable fats like olive oil, avocados, and nuts -- all of which I consume at an ungodly rate. So, it is with no shock and awe that my HDL numbers are good. This result should be greater than 46. Mine was 89. Triple yay!

Total cholesterol should be between 125 and 200. Mine was 195 -- still healthy, but on the high side. What I can only deduce is that I might be going overboard on the daily avocado intake. Perhaps I will slow down, but only a little. I wouldn't want those nasty LDLs to take over the joint!

For more reading, visit the American Heart Assoc. website.

(If there are any medical professionals reading my blog, feel free to give me a head's up if my understanding of such things is at all erroneous! Much appreciated!)

Quinoa and Brown Rice Stuffed Peppers

2010-02-17T12:40:00.000-08:00

Stuffed peppers is a dish that I remember loving as a child, but back in the 80s, peppers in our house were filled with fatty beef and white rice. Our updated version is heart-healthy, meatless, and comforting. Quinoa is one of the world's only grains that is actually a complete protein - meaning that nutritionally, you won't miss the omission of meat at all. We use brown basmati rice for its low glycemic index value; it will help keep blood sugar levels stable. If capers, currants, and pine nuts seem foreign, give them a shot in this dish. The combination of sweet, salty, sour, and nutty pack a dynamic punch.

The prep time is long, making this recipe ideal for cold weekends when you aren't interested in venturing outside. The advantage is that it reheats quite nicely. Make it ahead of time, store in the fridge, and reheat on a night when you would otherwise have to resign yourself to a bowl of cereal. Maybe Friday night during Lent (if you're into that sort of thing!)?

If you don't have time to dry out tomatoes, sub tomato paste or sun dried tomatoes. Both should give the required flavor and texture.

Dressed in their jaunty little caps, these peppers promise to fill you up but not stick to your ribs -- or your arteries.

Makes 8 peppers (I could eat 2 each myself!)

1 teaspoon canola oil
1 onion, chopped
1 bell pepper, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 cup pine nuts
1 teaspoon paprika
1/4 cup (about 10 each) chopped, pitted green olives
1/4 cup currants
2 tablespoons capers
2 oven dried tomatoes(8 quarters or 4 halves, depending on how you cut them), chopped
3/4 cup brown basmati rice
1/2 cup quinoa
2 1/2 cups water
1/2 cup chopped parsley
Salt and pepper, to taste
8 bell peppers
2 oven dried tomatoes (8 quarters or 4 halves, depending on how you cut them)
4 roma tomatoes, chopped
3/4 cup water

1. In a large flameproof casserole, heat oil over medium-high heat.
2. Add onion, bell pepper, and garlic. Cook for about 3 minutes, stirring, or until tender.
3. Stir in pinenuts. Cook until vegetables and pinenuts begin to brown.
4. Add paprika. Toast for 1 minute. Stir in olives, currants, capers, and tomatoes.
5. Add rice, quinoa, and water. Bring to a boil. Reduce to a low simmer, and cook for 40 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Add salt and pepper. Stir in parsley.
6. Set the oven at 375 degrees. Remove the tops of the bell peppers. Set aside 5 of the tops (stems in tact). Chop the remaining 3 tops, and discard those stems. Remove and discard the seeds and veins of the peppers.
7. Place all 8 peppers in a large roasting pan. Fill each pepper with the rice and quinoa mixture. Place tops on 5 of the peppers. Leave the other 3 uncovered.
8. In a blender, puree chopped pepper tops, oven dried tomatoes, roma tomatoes, and water. Season with salt and pepper.
9. Pour puree in the bottom of the pan, around the peppers. Cover with foil. Bake for 1 hour and 30 minutes, rotating occasionally. Remove the foil, and bake for an additional 15 minutes.

Ranch Dip

2010-02-17T11:17:00.001-08:00

Store-bought salad dressings and dips are chock full of corn syrup, other sugars, and nasty stabilizers. Save yourself the guilt by making your own. Sometimes a salad requires only a squirt of lemon juice and a drizzle of olive oil. Other times, your stomach cries out for a substantial partner which makes getting your daily dose of green veggies seem like a sinful indulgence.

Ranch dip is a party favorite - smothered on hot wings and coating baby carrots. If you already have homemade mayo on hand, this recipe requires less than 5 minutes to throw it all together - making it the perfect addition to your already lengthy party prep list.

If you wish to dress a salad, thin the dip by whisking in a stream of buttermilk until it reaches the desired consistency.

Makes 1 quart

1 1/2 cups mayonnaise
1 1/2 cups creme fraiche or sour cream (see our upcoming post about how to make your own)
6 scallions, minced
1 clove garlic, grated
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
Pinch paprika
3 tablespoons vinegar
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a large bowl, combine all ingredients. Stir well.
2. Taste for seasoning, add more salt and pepper if you like.

Great Minds...

2010-02-16T23:50:00.000-08:00

You know the saying. While spending my "Friday" night sprawled alone on the futon, Olympics droning on in the background, laptop propped fittingly on my lap, and vat of wine in my hand not working the mouse, I came across a blurb on www.sanfranmag.com. Jan Newberry writes of Absinthe's bar menu, "Taking the Bay Area’s DIY ethos to heart, executive chef Jamie Lauren not only makes the sausages—a blend of Kobe beef, pork shoulder, and her own bacon—but she also bakes the buns (and slathers them with bacon fat), ferments the sauerkraut, blends the ketchup and mustard, and fries the so-good-you-can’t-stop-eating-them yogurt-dill potato chips." Perhaps this is the hot dog that my husband has been craving and denying himself of in 2010. It could be the ideal "unprocessed" cheater meal...almost not even cheating.

Jamie Oliver - Helping Feed America

2010-02-14T08:55:00.000-08:00

You must watch this talk given by Jamie Oliver, upon receipt of the TED award. Oliver speaks passionately about how obesity is killing America and the rest of the world. He believes - and I agree 100% - that the way to combat this epidemic is to re-teach people how to cook. Fast food, poor school lunches, and the convenience food industry are shortening our lifespan and the lifespans of future generations. But we can fight this - by merely returning to the kitchen. Please watch and take a second to really hear what he has to say...is your diet killing you and your family?

Almond Butter

2010-02-12T20:04:00.001-08:00

They say necessity is the mother of invention. Well, whoever comprises the proverbial "they" might just be right. My obsessive consumption of peanut butter meant that it was quickly time for round 2. Turns out that raw, unsalted, ungreased peanuts are kind of difficult to find at my local non-pretentious market. What I found instead were raw almonds, a tasty alternative that might remove some of the monotony from my day to day. I smeared some on toast and topped it with apple butter. It was a combination so right that I might be a lifetime convert -- until the next "necessity" comes along, that is.

Makes 1 pound of almond butter

1 pound (approx. 3 cups) raw, unblanched almonds
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
2 1/2 tablespoons canola oil

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Spread almonds on a rimmed baking sheet. Toast nuts for 15 minutes. Cool completely.
2. In a food processor, combine toasted nuts and salt. Process for 90 seconds.
3. Stir in canola oil. Process for an additional 3 minutes, stopping and scraping often, until smooth. The almond butter will be looser and slightly runnier than peanut butter.
4. Pour into an air-tight container, cover, and store in the refrigerator.

We'll miss you, Grandpa Chuck

2010-02-12T15:49:00.000-08:00

He wasn't known for his culinary prowess, but you might believe so after viewing this picture -- it's one of my favorites. What he did pass down, though, was a love for photography -- the same love that both my mom and I share. In fact, he probably developed this in his home dark room. It was the same spot where I spent countless hours building model ships at the butt crack of dawn and marveling at how someone could smoke a pipe without wearing any teeth. Well, dagnabit, he sure knew how to have a good time. Missing you, Grandpa.
1923-2010

Happy Birthday, Quigs!

2010-02-11T17:32:00.000-08:00

Only an hour and a half till guests start arriving for the birthday bbq bash, and I'm so hungry! Here's what's on the menu -- braised collard greens, barbecue brisket, habanero-garlic wings and ranch, buttermilk biscuits, baked beans, cornbread, parsnip gratin, and low-fat chocolate cupcakes made sinfully indulgent with a giant rosette of vanilla buttercream. Thanks to Quigs for giving us a reason to do all of this cooking!

Kale and White Bean Soup

2010-02-07T10:03:00.000-08:00

At our place, busy lives mean the resurgence of the use of the slow-cooker. After a long day at work or a jam-packed day of errands, there is nothing better than coming home to fully cooked dinner -- that didn't happen to appear in a grease-stained paper bag.

This recipe is not perfect for work days, but instead better for the weekend when you will be popping in and out of the kitchen. The beans must cook for 3 hours before the addition of the kale and potatoes. Once you have added the second round of ingredients, set the timer. At that point, feel free to leave. When the soup is finished, it will hold on the warm setting for many hours.

For a meatier dish, add a hearty protien like chicken legs or smoked sausage at the onset of cooking.

Serves 6

3 tomatoes, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
1/2 pound (8 ounces) dried great northern beans
2 quarts (8 cups) chicken stock
4 red potatoes, chopped
3 small bunches kale, chopped
3 cups water
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a large slow-cooker, combine tomatoes, garlic, onions, beans, and chicken stock. Put the lid on, and cook on high for 3 hours.
2. Stir in potatoes, kale, and water. Make sure that the kale and potatoes are well immersed in the liquid or they will not cook properly. Cook on high for 3-5 hours or until potatoes and beans are tender. Taste for seasoning, and add salt and pepper.

Ketchup

2010-02-06T10:46:00.000-08:00

I could eat ketchup on anything and everything. French fries, in all their salty, greasy greatness, are nothing but a mere vehicle for the sweet, tangy rush of gobs of ketchup. One tiny matchstick requires at least 1/4 cup of the crimson sauce. Burgers should ooze scarlet -- and not just bovine blood. Hot dogs should force the condiment to envelope your chin. Eggs, rice, toast, hell even the most perfectly roasted potato is taken to heavenly heights when dragged through a pool of ketchup.

Addictions are meant to be fed, and if I couldn't get my fix from a corn-syrup laden plastic squeeze bottle, then we certainly had to come up with something close or risk the unbearable symptoms of total withdrawl. This recipe was not an easy one. We cooked up 3 or 4 batches before Ben would even deem it "bloggable", and he still isn't completely satisfied. I, however, took one look at it, dipped in one finger, and then another, savoring the sweet relief, closing my eyes while my veins delivered everything I had been craving. Sometimes, ketchup is so good that it doesn't even need a vehicle.

Makes about 3 cups

1/2 cup honey
1 cup vinegar
2 small yellow onions, minced
1 medium chili pepper, minced
6 cloves garlic, minced
10 roma tomatoes, chopped
1/2 teaspoon paprika
2 whole cloves
1/2 inch piece of ginger, peeled and minced
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a flameproof casserole, combine honey, vinegar, onion, chili, and garlic. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium, and simmer for about 5 minutes, or until it starts to thicken. The bubbles will come slower and be larger.
2. Stir in tomatoes, paprika, cloves, ginger, and salt and pepper. Cover with a lid, and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
3. Remove the lid. Smash the tomatoes with a potato masher until a chunky salsa-like puree forms. Simmer for an additional 2 hours and 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. If you have a splatter screen, it will come in handy during this stage of the cooking.
5. Transfer the contents of the pot to a blender. (You may want to do this step in batches. Hot items in the blender tend to expand and splash upwards. Cover with a lid, leaving the center open to release steam. Hold a towel loosely over the center hole.) Blend for at least 3 minutes on high, or until the ketchup is smooth.
6. Store in an air-tight container in the fridge until the next time you're jonesing for a burger.

Preserved Meyer Lemons

2010-02-03T15:22:00.000-08:00

Meyer lemons are believed to be a cross between an orange and a lemon, originally grown in China. Slightly sweeter than standard lemons, they are also a deeper yellow-orange hue with a smooth exterior. Praised by restaurant chefs for their unique flavor, they can be used in both sweet and savory applications.

Preserving lemons in salt is a North African tradition. The cure allows for longer storage of the fruit in addition to making the skins more palatable. Before using, remember to rinse the excess salt. The pulp is typically discarded. Should you not find Meyer lemons, feel free to sub regular lemons, limes, kumquats, or really any type of citrus. The chopped rind pairs well with cooked garlic. Stir it into braised greens, stewed chicken, salad dressings, or a pot of rice or couscous.

Makes 1 pint

2 Meyer lemons, cut into quarters
Juice of 2 Meyer lemons
1/2 to 3/4 cup salt

1. Pour 1/4 cup of salt into the bottom of a 1 pint jar. Press 4 lemon wedges in tightly. Pour an additional 1/4 cup salt over the wedges. Press in the remaining 4 wedges. Pour approximately 1/4 salt over the top of the additional wedges. You may need to use slightly less salt, depending on the exact capacity of the jar and how you packed the lemons.
2. Pour in juice of the other 2 lemons. Seal with the lid, and shake aggresively to distribute the salt and juice.
3. Refrigerate for at least a week. Before using the lemons, remove the pulp, rinse the skins, and julienne or chop. The lemons will last in the fridge for up to 1 month.

Celery Root Remoulade

2010-01-29T09:55:00.000-08:00

Homemade mayonnaise, while it may seem like a ridiculous concept, is far better than its store-bought counterpart. When all is said and done, it really only adds an extra 10 minutes to prep time. Our version uses a cooked egg -- traditional recipes use raw -- so that it is safe for pregnant diners or anyone else concerned about the consumption of raw eggs. The addition of water keeps the white bright and lends an extra fluff to the final product. This mayo is unadorned, best used as a base for sauces and other dishes. If it seems like too much of a pain in the butt to you, feel free to substitute your favorite brand when making the remoulade below.

Laying in bed last week, I stumbled across Molly Wizenberg's piece on celery root in Bon Appetit magazine. Firmly attached to some craving center in my brain, I just had to have celery root remoulade. The dish is quite simple, with the only key being the draining of the celery root. If you don't squeeze hard enough, the end result will be loose and watery. Think of CRR as an elegant coleslaw, served in the winter months as a teaser for the barbecues to come later in the year. I enjoy it most with roast chicken and deeply caramelized potatoes. The next day, rub two slices of toast with garlic, chop a few anchovies, and layer the remoulade with leftover chicken. The sandwich might even be tastier than the previous night's dinner.

Mayonnaise

Makes approx. 1 quart

1 egg, poached
2 tablespoons vinegar
4 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch paprika
3 cups canola oil

1. In a food processor, combine egg, vinegar, water, salt, and paprika. Run the machine for two minutes.
2. With the machine still running, slowly drizzle in oil. Stop the machine. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt and paprika if you like.
3. Store in the fridge, covered. It will last for at least a week.

Celery Root Remoulade

Makes approx. 1 quart

1 pound celery root, peeled and shredded
1 teaspoon salt
1 large shallot, minced
6 tablespoons mayo (from above recipe)
2 tablespoons vinegar
1 tablespoon mustard (we will be posting a recipe for this once we have perfected the proportions)
1/4 cup chopped parsley

1. In a large bowl, combine shredded celery root and salt. Let stand for 1 hour.
2. Transfer celery root to a colander placed in the sink. Rinse celery root. Using your hands, wring out excess liquid.
3. In a clean bowl, combine celery root, shallot, mayo, vinegar, mustard, and parsley. Stir well. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt, if you like.

Oven Dried Tomatoes

2010-01-29T09:53:00.000-08:00

Should we have conceived of this endeavor earlier in 2009, we could have had the foresight to plan ahead and can tomatoes and other seasonal veggies. "Should." We didn't. Of course, like typical Americans, we want what we want, and we want it now. Unable to use canned tomatoes due to the restrictions of our "diet," we went in search of a way to make off season tomatoes slightly more tasty than a wet cardboard box. Almost every restaurant that I have worked at in the past made some form of dried tomatoes. The slow and extremely long cooking time dehydrates the fruits, extracting tasteless water and leaving behind only the most concentrated tomato essence.

This recipe can be accomplished in a gas oven or an electric oven -- sad to say, but we have an electric oven. It sucks for everyday use, but should "the big one" come, our building may not ignite. If you have a gas oven, feel free to leave the tomatoes in for the full 12 hours. Due to the heat from the pilot, they will be slightly more dried out than the electric version, but that's no problem at all. You may also pull them out a few hours earlier, if you like.

Once the tomatoes are finished, they can be used as the base for a sauce, stirred in with pasta, layered on your favorite sandwich, or as a replacement for canned tomatoes (ounce for ounce). With minimum active preparation time, these bad boys are well worth the effort.

10 plum tomatoes, sliced in half
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
4 sprigs thyme
olive oil, for drizzling
salt and pepper, to taste

1. Set the oven to 200 degrees. Set a cooling rack inside a rimmed baking sheet. Place the tomato halves on the cooling rack.
2. Place 1 or 2 slices of garlic on each tomato. Top the garlic with a few leaves of thyme. Lightly drizzle them with olive oil. Season the tomatoes with salt and pepper.
3. "Dry" in the oven for 6 hours at 200 degrees. After 6 hours, turn off the oven but leave the tomatoes inside for 6 more hours.
4. Remove the tomatoes from the oven. Use immediately or store in the refrigerator in an air-tight container, layered between sheets of parchment or waxed paper.

Shrimp Stew

2010-01-27T15:53:00.000-08:00

Ben threw this dish together in less than 30 minutes while I tickled the keys of my computer, but in my defense, I did make the fish stock. Fish stock is a frugal way to use up otherwise discarded scraps like shrimp shells, fish heads, and lobster bodies. Each time we enjoy one of the above, we pack up the leftovers in plastic and toss them into the freezer. Once we have sufficient material, we combine the remnants with water, onion, celery, mushrooms, bay leaves, peppercorns, parsley stems, and a splash of white wine. The easiest way to make stock is in a slow cooker. Cook for 4 hours on low. Strain and set aside or freeze.

Clean Fish, based in San Francisco, but available in restaurants and some markets nation wide, are the famous, sustainable brokers who put themselves on the map with Loch Duart salmon. We love Clean Fish not only for their eco-friendly policies but their sweet, succulent Laughing Bird White Caribbean Shrimp.

Mount Eden, a Santa Cruz Mountain winery long supported by my father, makes elegant whites and reds. This evening, we cracked a 2006 estate-bottled chardonnay -- the perfect match for this stew and the Laughing Bird shrimp in particular.

Sit down at your table, pour the wine, ladle the soup, and imagine yourself seaside.

(The above photo was taken at Santiago de Chile's Mercado Central.)

1 teaspoon olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 cups diced tomatoes
2 red potatoes, roughly chopped
4 cups fish stock
1/2 pound shrimp, peeled and de-veined
Salt and black pepper, to taste
1/2 cup chopped parsley

1. In a large flameproof casserole, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion, carrot, celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes or until tender.
2. Add tomatoes, potatoes, and fish stock. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, and cook for 20 minutes or until potatoes are tender.
3. Add shrimp. Cook for 4 minutes. Taste, and season with salt and pepper. Stir in parsley. Ladle into bowls and serve with garlic rubbed toast, if you like.